Good first Creek 5.11-'s
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I'm looking to break into 5.11- at the Creek for my up coming trip and was wondering if anyone had suggestions on the best routes to break into 5.11- on? |
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soul fire at optimator wall. |
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Fat Cat 5.11- was my first. Fingers to a pod to #3 hands |
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heres another short one that wouldn't be a bad one to work on. No one will be up there. mountainproject.com/v/jump-… |
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GOLD CROWN |
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pussy cat or battle of the bulge. |
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annunaki |
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Mr Peanut at Donnelly |
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I thought Mr Peanut was fun, and a good suggestion, but it's worth mentioning that the anchor at the top is less than ideal. It's been several years at this point so it's possible that I'm either mis-remembering or they've been upgraded, but something to be aware of depending on the OP's comfort level with desert mank. |
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Of course, it all depends on hand size and crack size. We all known that grades don't mean much at the Creek; it is more about you familiarity with that size. For a significant portion of routes, 5.11 at IC means red Camalots. At your hand size, this will be hellish. Granted, you can also seek out wide hands, fists, and OW 5.11s. Think Pink, at BOTB, comes to mind as a 5.11- that is more friendly to those with fat hands. While certainly steep, it will be perfect hands for you. |
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Pistol Whipped (crag) has a few good options near Coyne Crack Simulator. Crack Attack is another good one, with more feet than most thin hands splitters. |
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4x4 would be a good 11- for someone with big hands to get his feet wet on (and not with blood). |
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Jeremy Kasmann wrote:Pistol Whipped (crag) has a few good options near Coyne Crack Simulator. Crack Attack is another good one, with more feet than most thin hands splitters.Crack Attack is awesome. Covers pretty much the whole range of sizes. The lower crux (which is the crux of the route for my small hands) is burly wide hands in a flare; this will be easy for your hand size. |
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Scarface.... Delicious! |
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Think Pink and Meat Hooks |
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Whale's Back, Gold Crown, Sinestra, MC's Hammer. If you can jam #3s, why not get on Steve Carruthers Memorial, Wiggins I or Meat Hooks? |
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Thanks for the great suggestions! |