Mountain Project Logo

Good first Creek 5.11-'s

Original Post
Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

I'm looking to break into 5.11- at the Creek for my up coming trip and was wondering if anyone had suggestions on the best routes to break into 5.11- on?

I'm thinking of staying away from the 4-star routes because 1) they tend to be sustained/long 2) I don't want to hog the popular route as I will need to work it a few times.

I have big hands (tight BD#3 is a hand jam) if that helps.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

soul fire at optimator wall.

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

Fat Cat 5.11- was my first. Fingers to a pod to #3 hands

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

heres another short one that wouldn't be a bad one to work on. No one will be up there. mountainproject.com/v/jump-…

while you're up there, check out go sparky go. it has a short and wild crux.

Michael Holland · · Lander, WY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

GOLD CROWN

THE WAVE

and the best of all: DESERET MOON!!! do the variation to the left that meets up with the fingers to hands crack... so sick

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

pussy cat or battle of the bulge.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

annunaki

PeterW Whitmore · · Dryden, NY · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 50

Mr Peanut at Donnelly

Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 75

I thought Mr Peanut was fun, and a good suggestion, but it's worth mentioning that the anchor at the top is less than ideal. It's been several years at this point so it's possible that I'm either mis-remembering or they've been upgraded, but something to be aware of depending on the OP's comfort level with desert mank.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Of course, it all depends on hand size and crack size. We all known that grades don't mean much at the Creek; it is more about you familiarity with that size. For a significant portion of routes, 5.11 at IC means red Camalots. At your hand size, this will be hellish. Granted, you can also seek out wide hands, fists, and OW 5.11s. Think Pink, at BOTB, comes to mind as a 5.11- that is more friendly to those with fat hands. While certainly steep, it will be perfect hands for you.

Still, it really depends on what your objective is. If you just want to do a 5.11 at the Creek, to break that milestone, for a sense of satisfaction, or to just get over the fear of the number, you should probably go find a wide hands/fists 5.11 that will feel not too bad for you hands. However, if you want to open up the option of climbing most of the IC 5.11s, you'll need to learn to deal with thin hands. It will be rough at first, won't lead to the quick tick that a wider 5.11 will give, and may require some TR flailing, but it'll be worth it. For this, Soul Fire is a pretty good recommendation as entry level red Camalot crack. The portion of straight in thin hands is reasonably short and at the top, since you can stem for a significant portion of the route.

Jeremy K · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Pistol Whipped (crag) has a few good options near Coyne Crack Simulator. Crack Attack is another good one, with more feet than most thin hands splitters.

david goldstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,541

4x4 would be a good 11- for someone with big hands to get his feet wet on (and not with blood).

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Jeremy Kasmann wrote:Pistol Whipped (crag) has a few good options near Coyne Crack Simulator. Crack Attack is another good one, with more feet than most thin hands splitters.
Crack Attack is awesome. Covers pretty much the whole range of sizes. The lower crux (which is the crux of the route for my small hands) is burly wide hands in a flare; this will be easy for your hand size.
Jennifer Vaisman · · Longmont, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 60

Scarface.... Delicious!

Jaaron Mankins · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 930

Think Pink and Meat Hooks

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Whale's Back, Gold Crown, Sinestra, MC's Hammer. If you can jam #3s, why not get on Steve Carruthers Memorial, Wiggins I or Meat Hooks?

How big are your fingers, btw? I bet you can get good fingers on many off-finger 12s.

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

Thanks for the great suggestions!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
Post a Reply to "Good first Creek 5.11-'s"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.