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Does a BD Chaos harness "break in" and get more comfy?

Original Post
wilcox510 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 0

Everyone seems to rave about the BD Chaos harnesses, when I tried one on an hang in it it kind of bites at the sides of my waist, on the bottom of the waist belt. I think I read somewhere that they kind of "break in" and get more comfy. Most recent harness was an arcteryx, which is so thin there is nothing to break in, so its as good as it gets from the start....

mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Just get a Misty Mountain Cadillac and never be uncomfortable again.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
wilcox510 wrote:Everyone seems to rave about the BD Chaos harnesses, when I tried one on an hang in it it kind of bites at the sides of my waist, on the bottom of the waist belt. I think I read somewhere that they kind of "break in" and get more comfy. Most recent harness was an arcteryx, which is so thin there is nothing to break in, so its as good as it gets from the start....
I've noticed that when I rap, but it seems not to happen when I fall. I just hike the belt up a bit after I step over the edge on rappel. I love 'em, this is my second one.
ShireSmitty · · WP · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

+1 for the Misty Mt. Cadillac

I own both and climbed sport, trad, ice, free on walls, aid on walls all in both and the Cadillac is the far superior harness at the same price. Adjustable leg loops, the ability to custom size your waist and leg loops separately, 2 waist buckles, 6 gear loops, full strength haul loop, superior comfort....

mmcfarland · · Millcreek ,Ut · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

I have partners who love their Chaos harness. For me, It's not very comfortable for several reasons;

1) I need adjustable leg loops for my BD size XL thighs and size L waist.

2) I prefer the gear loops that are attached to the middle of the hip belt, not the bottom seam. Especially rigid ones that stick out a bit on their own. I find them smother to clip and unclip, and I tend to clip onto my shirt tail on the bottom seam harnesses. That could just be my poor technique.

3) I know it's weird, but I find zipper access more awkward in this harness. Something about the belay loop location.

4) The Chaos isn't very comfortable for hanging belays or long multi pitch, for me.

Harnesses are probably like shoes though, what fits one body perfect is totally wrong for another. I like a lot of BD products, but for me the Chaos has been retired to gym harness status.

Luke Stefurak · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,573

I think the Chaos is superior to the Arc'teryx R300 if you have lots of gear and like to rack on your harness.

The problem is that due to where the loops are sewn on the arc'teryx the harness bends in half and thus doesn't distribute the weight very well.

The Chaos does break in a little. I thought it was uncomfortable at first, and now I'm sad that mine wore out.

Not sure about the newest model. I had a first gen chaos. (We are now on Gen 3) I assume they are similar. I hope they fixed the durability issues.

- Luke

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415

+1 for Misty Cadillac

I'll never purchase another brand for a harness, EVER!

  • Competitive prices compared to all major brands
  • Made in the USA (Vally Crusis, NC to be specific)
  • Call em'---they'll make sure it fits properly (i.e. bigger or smaller leg loops if needed)
  • They'll even put additional gear loops where you want em'
  • Burly design and very durable
  • Unmatched comfort

No reason to not buy a Misty in my opinion.

Sorry---Had to give a plug for Misty, those guys are super awesome folks!
Craig T · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

I have not noticed any break-in after a couple years. Out of the box I've found it to be quite comfortable though, especially compared to my old Mammut with the big hard rolled edges.

Joshua Payne · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

I've got both as well, and the Misty is far superior.

mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Read the last 4 post carefully. BIG SHOUT OUT TO MISTY MOUNTAIN, these guys rule. I've owned ALOT of harnesses and will never buy anything other than a Misty Mountain again. I love the Cadillac, mine is a little older and doesn't have the ice clipper loops. No biggie though, i make do. Trad, ice, aid, it does it all. I'm sure it would kickass at sport climbing too, i don't sport climb though, it's a limp wristed approach to climbing to me.( Not that there is anything wrong with that)But i digress. Buy an effing Misty Mountain harness and stopp messin' around.

wilcox510 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 0

A lot of Misty Mountain love here as usual.... Anyone tried the brand new version of the Misty harnesses? I have a Turbo thats a couple years old, and I actually dont think its that comfy. The 1" webbing on the waist belt seems to just did into my sides, it doesnt distribute weight throughout the waist belt well. They changed that in the new ones, hopefully its better. It also seems like my waist belt buckle (the quick adjust type) slips and loosens up more than other harnesses I've used. I may end up ordering a new Cadillac and Turbo to try them on at home.

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415
wilcox510 wrote:A lot of Misty Mountain love here as usual.... Anyone tried the brand new version of the Misty harnesses? I have a Turbo thats a couple years old, and I actually dont think its that comfy.
http://mistymountain.com/recreational-gear/recreational-harnesses/turbo-harness.html

I have not tried the new version of any of their harnesses, so I can't comment in those regards. Also, no one suggested the Turbo, it's more of a on and off sport harness for craggin'. The Caddy is an all around burly workhorse that's designed to carry all the gear you'll need for long free climbs while staying comfy all day. The doubling back buckles are definitely the way to go too.

My preferred style of climbing is long free climbs, and in this regards the Caddy excels in staying comfy and organizing my rack without a lot of clutter. I actually bought the Titan last season for some aid/bigwalling and ended up combining the Titan hip section and my Caddy leg loops for the ultimate multi pitch free climbing harness. In short..it's the bomb!
Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837
Jonathan Dull wrote:The doubling back buckles are definitely the way to go...
Why? I've never had a problem with SA buckles. There are a few reasons why more harnesses are going this route...
Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415
Ryan Nevius wrote: There are a few reasons why more harnesses are going this route...
Why? How is more advantageous than a doubling back buckle as far as safety and redundancy is concerned?

If you're tying to save a few grams in weight or save an extra 2 seconds in putting it on then, I guess..?
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I'm going to hijack this thread.

I use a Cadillac regularly. I had it shipped with fixed leg loops. I'm not a fan of the six gear loops or double front buckles. However, I love the fit and comfort of the Cadillac. What I want is a Cadillac with four large gear loops, single waist buckle, and fixed leg loops. Does this describe anything currently made by MM or am I looking at something custom? I could just call them but...

As for the BD harness, waist belts sometimes soften up or you get used to new the harnesses. Much like BD backpacks, I like BD harnesses on paper but in execution they always come up lacking. I haven't tried their new harnesses but I doubt BD has pulled it out.

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415
Ray Pinpillage wrote: I'm not a fan of the six gear loops or double front buckles. However, I love the fit and comfort of the Cadillac. What I want is a Cadillac with four large gear loops, single waist buckle, and fixed leg loops. Does this describe anything currently made by MM or am I looking at something custom? I could just call them but... .
But what? You could have called them in the time it took you to post in this thread.

Also, whats the deal with folks not liking the doubling back buckles? Do people really forget to double back their harnesses that often? I've never had this problem... Am I missing something?
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Jonathan Dull wrote: But what? You could have called them in the time it took you to post in this thread. Also, whats the deal with folks not liking the doubling back buckles? Do people really forget to double back their harnesses that often? I've never had this problem... Am I missing something?
But I asked here instead. I'm busy dealing with important shit and you guys have nothing going on. Dance puppet!

I'm too busy and important to double back...speed buckles...time is money.
Will Cohen · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 80

Once I graduate i'm ordering a Cadillac with one speed buckle waist strap, and speed buckle leg loops. I called and they said they'd do it no problem. They also customize gear loops. I guess I just danced for ray...

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

All of you fellows espousing the beauty and wonder of the traditional, doubled back buckle - have you tried a harness with a speed buckle for any extended period of time? The benefits are hard to describe, but there is no comparison in speed, convenience, and ease of use, IMO. It is the one thing that holds me back from purchasing a Misty Mountain harness. Speed buckles are quicker, can cinched down tighter, you cannot forget to double them back, and are just generally orders of magnitude more convenient.

That said, if comfort is paramount for you then it seems the consensus is: suck it up, buy a Misty Mountain harness, their shortcomings are quite minor.

wilcox510 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 0

Alexander- Misty has speed buckles available, I think for all their harnesses, so that shouldn't be holding you back. Anyone else notice their Misty speed buckle loosening up more that other types? I am very tempted to get a Cadillac like Ray suggested, fixed leg loops and one waist buckle.

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415
wilcox510 wrote:. Anyone else notice their Misty speed buckle loosening up more that other types?
None of my partners have mentioned anything about that. I've always wondered if those speed buckles could wiggle loose while working a chimney or an offwidth.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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