Best 5.10 trad shoes

Looking to replace my beaten down and worn out Anasazi VCS (fifth resole, love 'em). I'd like to get a shoe that's comfortable to wear on multipitch climbs and is solid up to at least 11. Mostly a trad shoe. Also, I think I want to switch from the velcro to laces since I've been doing a lot more crack climbing (but not Creek style small splitters so the Moccasyms probably aren't the best).

Maybe the new Pinks? Thoughts?

I like c4 rubber so I go with the blue petroglyph for velcro, but the pinks and the moccs would be good too.

Why do you want to switch from velcro to laces for crack climbing? If anything switch from velcro to no laces or just stick with velcro- laces get thrashed on cracks. Personally, I've been a fan of the Blanco for hard, thin/corner cracks, the Verde for face climbing and the newly redesigned VCS for a general, all-around trad shoe. The new heel cup is a lot less aggressive and I can stand to wear the shoe for more than 6 pitches. I think the different variations of the Anasazi provide a great, diverse quiver of trad climbing shoes.

Personally I find that a shoe I don't need/want to take off while belaying on multi pitch gives up a lot in terms of performance

I have my VCS comfortably snug and they perform VERY well and I can slip them off and on very quickly which makes them a perfect multipitch shoe IMO.

I also have comfortably snug moccs and love those as well. If there is a lot of edging on the route I will use the VCS, purely crack and smearing I use moccs.

Maybe it's just how old the velcro is, it gets undone in a lot of cracks and then the shoes get slippery.
I'll check out the new Anasazi's, they might be exactly what I'm looking for.

In Yosemite I rotate between the TC Pro, Anasazi Hi Tops (these are velcro), and the Mythos. Used to be the Acopa Aztecs, which were the best shoes I've ever used for all day moderates.

Longs multis 5.10- and under (your Steck-Sal, NEB, Royal Arches to Crest Jewel type days): Mythos

Long multis 5.10+ and up, either of the others.

Shorter stuff at the Cookie, Arch, other cragging: Anasazis have been great, sometimes Miuras.

Long live shoe talk!

I'm probably alone, but for a workhorse trad shoe I love Newtons. Always have, always will.

I love my TC Pros. Stiff enough to edge, awesome at smearing, and small enough toe box to fit in almost all cracks. Can jam all day and feet never hurt. Can leave them on for long days as well. Favorite shoe I've ever had.

I love my TC Pros. Stiff enough to edge, awesome at smearing, and small enough toe box to fit in almost all cracks. Can jam all day and feet never hurt. Can leave them on for long days as well. Favorite shoe I've ever had.

I really like my TC Pros, but sometimes I find the rubber a little hard, and therefore a little sketchy on smearing/smear stemming. Anyone else had this experience? Although I know it will make them wear out faster, I'm thinking of getting them resoled with a stickier rubber. Any thoughts, particularly which rubber might give the best composite edging/smear/wear performance?

- Tc Pro's seemed good when I wore them (three pitches) but not 5.10

- Anasazi's are nice to me (Golden Tan seems similar to the old ones if not exaxt)

- Stonelands seem like they may be a good option for you with the laces

FYI I wear Evolv Pontas lace ups now for rope routes & occasionally a pair of 5.10 Rockwrenches

TC Pros for any crack / edge

Moccasym for slab.

i love my Mocs for any trad up to 5.10/5.11

has anyone tried the new pinks? I'm interested in how they compare to the Blancos/verdes. I'd guess a bit neural, but I have not had a chance to hold them yet

have been using the new pinks for several months now, mostly on Index granite, and Vantage basalt. I have used Verdes a ton since they came out 7 odd years ago, and the blanco's sporadically as well. I use anasazi vcs a bunch, and have had previous experience in the O.G. pinks lace up.

How the pinks climb/feel in relation to the verdes:

HEEL-better fit in the heel due to new improved heel pod. the tension of the slingshot allows the heel to seat securely and the cutouts on the sides cup nicely. solid improvement. the tension feel roughly the same on the new pinks as the verdes, and less stiffness/ bite/ tension in the heel as the blanco. Heel is much improved imo than all previous heels from the original pink until the current iteration.

RANDS- these new pinks sport c4 high friction rands. a great improvement in overall performance while pasting in pin scars or any other time when the added friction on the sides and top of the shoe matters. i find the c4 to have a little more give, reducing the pain/ hotspots on the toes and allowing a more comfortable overall feel with solid shape retention in the shoe.

MIDSOLE- there is a new midsole design in the new pink, and i feel that the anasazi has always been a super technical shoe with a great toe for handling tiny technical foot moves with ease. this is still the case. The rubber being c4 is slightly softer/ more sensitive than the verde's onyxx. might feel less powerful in the toe as there tends to be less tension, therefor less "knuckling" than the Blanco, but i'll happily trade the overall comfort as the performance tradeoff is very minimal if at all. happy feet climb better imo

uppers are the same, last is the same, C4 rubber similar to the blanco and original Pink. I would size down one half size than blanco's if looking for a very tight fit with similar feel.

Overall, i can't say i'm going to be at all bummed to not have the verde or blanco. the new pink is an improvement for sure.

as for how these work for trad as per the OP, i love them for crack climbing, as well as face if that helps..? they can toe in very nicely to thin cracks and the c4 rands give them an advantage in pin scars and flare smears. they are not the stiffest through the foot, but focus the power on the toes...some users may find they prefer more supportive/ stiffer shoes for "trad". for this i like the anasazi guide. the longest "day" ive put in these shoes was 10 pitches on index granite and my feet were happy at the end of the day, and the shoes performed flawlessly.