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Viper or Quarks for First Tool?

Original Post
Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Assuming I get on more ice this season, I'm thinking about picking up my first set of tools in a few months. I'm trying to decide between the BD Viper or the Petzl quarks. This would be both for waterfall ice in the Daks as well as alpine climbing use (think liberty Ridge).

Which tool would be better? Or should I look at something else?

[EDIT] I got confuzed and meant to talk about the BD viper tools instead of the reactors. My apologies, between viper and quark what should I look at?

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

Most likely quarks if you have to choose only those two.

However, this is a strange pair to be choosing between, as they are both very different and at very different price points. Chances are, you probably just need to spend more time playing with all the tools there are on the market and figure out what you like.

Reactors are very good for their price, but really not a great tool overall. While they are very well balanced and swing nicely, they have very poor clearance, which can get annoying going over bulges. I happen to like the offset grip overall, but a regular grip is preferable for more alpine climbing for better plunging. But if you are on a budget, reactors are probably the best bang for your buck out there.

Quarks are a very good tool for virtually everything (except mixed/dry tooling). Really one of the best tools in its category. It's a near perfect tool for your needs, but you'll be paying for it. I think the finger trigger is a bit silly, but not a deal breaker by any means. There are a number of other tools out there that perform similarly at comparable price, so it's worth your time to play with them.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

What Shoo said. If you plan on sticking with ice climbing, get Quarks. If you don't, they retain their resell value better than Reactors.

Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Per my edit, I meant to compare the Viper and the Quark. I chose these two because it seems they are the entry level/versatile tools from Petzl and BD and along the same price range.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I would check out the Cassin all mountains in addition to the other two. Go with whatever feels right.

Paul Leverich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

I prefer the Vipers over the Quarks due to the head weight in cold ice the quarks seemed to bounce off more often then the Vipers did. That could be just me and the way I swing tools. Try both then pick the tools you like better.

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
Kirby1013 wrote: I would check out the Cassin all mountains in addition to the other two. Go with whatever feels right.
Bingo!

The swing geometry between the three is quite different. I find that new climbers will find one they like quite a bit more than the others. As you get more experience, you'll hopefully learn how to climb with anything.

I learned on Vipers, but give me just about any tool and I'll have fun with it. It takes a couple swings to adjust to the timing of a new tool, but there really aren't any that aren't fun.

Another note on the Quark: I thought I would like the trigger, but after giving it a solid chance, it had to go. It doesn't work with how I hold an ice tool. Things like that and pick geometry shouldn't affect you decision. Grip configuration and pick geometry are easily tailored to your preference. Just judge the tools on aspects you can't easily change, like shaft geometry.
Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Still trying to make the call before the 20% off sales end.

If I take off the trigger on the qaurks, so I necessarily lose the upper hand rest? Because that might be the deal breaker for me, if I have to have the trigger finger to have a secondary hand rest.

Any other arguments to either side?

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
Jace Mullen wrote:Still trying to make the call before the 20% off sales end. If I take off the trigger on the qaurks, so I necessarily lose the upper hand rest? Because that might be the deal breaker for me, if I have to have the trigger finger to have a secondary hand rest. Any other arguments to either side?
You can just remove the index finger part and screw the rest back on.
Josh Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 20

Hi Jace,
I climb mainly in the ADK's and have owned Quarks and currently own Vipers.
Two things to consider is which one fits your hand and your natural swing better. The Vipers have a slimmmer handle than the quarks. For me I thought the Quarks were awesome for the years I owned them but then after climbing with Vipers realized the handle fit my small hands better and the tool itself led to a more natural swing.
Second, Petzl designs their tools/crampons,etc. for planned obsolescence so if you want a tool that will last you years I would think about the Viper. When Petzl redesigned the quark they changed the head just enough that that you could not switch old Petzl Cascade picks onto the new quarks and the new Petzl picks wouldn't fit on the old Quarks. Then they stopped production of the cascade pick.
Same story with Petzl m-10 crampons.
Best of luck with whatever you decide, enjoy!

Scott Robertson · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 110

X All Mountains baby! But yeah, go with what you like.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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