Armed Robbery's 25 year old 3/8ths Rawl 5 Piece bolts with tons of hard falls on them.
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These bolts were replaced yesterday 25 years after I placed them. Both have had many fifteen to 20 foot whippers on them. The first two photos show the bolt my buddy took a 20 footer on just before replacing it yesterday. The last two photos show the bolt most people fall on. There is about 30-35 feet of rope out so the falls can be hard. |
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Nice Eric! |
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Ah... That bolt held my first big whip. *Sniffle* |
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Eric, send em my way & we'll get some tests run. A good friend of mine at Colorado State has just developed a testing rig and we're looking for replaced bolts of a known vintage to test. The hope is to get enough data to be able to get a sense of when to start replacing bolts. I've unscrewed about 200 Rawls like the ones in the pics to swap out cold shuts for commercial hangers & most looked like the ones in your pics, not exactly rusted out yet. You can reach me at my work email - tod.anderson@cms.hhs.gov & we can arrange other details. |
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Were these bolts installed without the washer? |
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No washer, haha. With the SMC Hanger the washer didn't always fit. |
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Mixed metal(SS and plated steel); 25 years old; 'a wetter environment by AZ standards,' etc. |
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Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:Mixed metal(SS and plated steel); 25 years old; 'a wetter environment by AZ standards,' etc. These bolts seem to be a good demonstration that all the hype surrounding 'galvinic corrosion' is just that. Hype.Nowhere does it say the hangers nor bolts are stainless. 25 year old vintage seems likely that both are plated. Galvanic corrosion is a scientific fact, not "hype". |
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Alex, |
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Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:Mixed metal(SS and plated steel); 25 years old; 'a wetter environment by AZ standards,' etc. These bolts seem to be a good demonstration that all the hype surrounding 'galvinic corrosion' is just that. Hype.There are some bolts here in CT that were mixed and placed about 5 years ago. When we unexpectedly rapped down to them no one in our party would dare clip them. The flaking metal and horrendous rust was plenty evidence for us that it's not hype. At least certainly not in the Northeast. |
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thats practically a brand new bolt --- arizona isnt exactly a wet area though, so unsurprising. Good on ya for replacing with new bolts though!! |
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Stainless hanger and non stainless bolt. It is interesting that some mixed metals have the reaction visible on the nut or washer and others seem new until you pull the hanger off and see the bolt down in the hole where it is rusting. I don't think we have nearly the problems here that other climates have. |
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yeah I would think water would be the obvious catalyst for corrosion to occur, similar to joining copper pipe to galvanized in your house. |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: There are some bolts here in CT that were mixed and placed about 5 years ago. When we unexpectedly rapped down to them no one in our party would dare clip them. The flaking metal and horrendous rust was plenty evidence for us that it's not hype. At least certainly not in the Northeast.shit dude you were hanging on them |
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What you don't see is the cone or the sleeve, which has significant less metal to corrode. The bolt hardly looks affected but I would be more concerned about the condition of the cone. |
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The problems I have seen with excessive rust (I really am careful not to call it galvinic corrosion since this is a pretty rare occurrence) is with bolts of low quality carbon steel. |