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Routes in 4. The Double Clutching Wall
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11:11 (aka "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Block Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Checkin' the Oil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chronic, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Comin In Hot T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crux Deluxe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dirty Dipstick T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Double Clutching T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Double Helix T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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In a Blunt T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rude Awakening T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Super Chronic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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SwitchBlade T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Terminal Mocha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thin Faith T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Wolverine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, James Q Martin 2010 |
| Page Views: | 3,999 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Nov 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Double Helix is a wild route which climbs a cascade of ever changing angles with twists and turns at every corner. Varied and sometimes tricky climbing on bomber rock will keep your mind busy, while the stellar positioning and exposure will rock your soul. Aside from the rack, you had better bring your game.
Start out in an obvious tight, vertical stem box, a little bit right of the route 11:11. Be clever with your gear, fingers and toes because it comes out fighting right off the deck. Move up to the first bolt and try to unlock a puzzlingly sequence on big holds. There are many ways to do it, but thinking outside the box is going to get you moving again past the first stemming crux (layback the jugs on your left, hidden pocket out right).
Pass a couple of bolts through a very fun and thoughtful low angle section of stone to access the stem box on your left. Go 10' or so before your next piece(s) of gear. Start moving into tech mode with thin wires and behind your back stemming through an awesome stretch of finger buckets and perfect finger pods, which will guide you through the middle stem box.
Take a rest and eye your gear well because the helix is about to twist once again! When you're ready, launch into the steep laybacking section, which leads to the entrance of the off fist crack. Which eventually tightens down to perfect steep hands, and keeps tightening down to fingers at the apex of the bulge! Look for clever and obvious steep stemming, pocket jugs, and finger buckets. It's not over until it's over. Another full on beautiful line!
This line was quite easily the dirtiest route Wade and I ever cleaned at the Waterfall. The entire upper crack, from the wide section up was filled with a very fine textured ancient sand which had a stubborn bite. Armed with specially machined tools, masks, and swimmers goggles, we set out to free both the choking sand and the beautiful deep crack. An effort well rewarded.
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