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PNW Mountaineering End of May - Early June?

Original Post
Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Starting to rough out a plan and wanted to check if anyone has advice or ideas for a last two weeks of may - first two weeks of June PNW trip. I'll be driving out from the east coast and living in my car/visiting friends. I expect to be in the PNW for ~3 weeks.

Ideas so far:

- Adams
- Baker
- Rainier
- Hood
- Glacier Peak?

Most of the climbing will be dependent on finding partners which will probably be a combination of posting on PNW message boards and calling friends in the area.

Can you recommend any climbs that might be good for a solo day if I'm unable to find a partner?

I like long walks in the snow, prefer to be above treeline, and am looking for climbs with minimal technical climbing. Running belays on steep snow are good. Not a strong rock or ice climber but a little fun is always acceptable.

I do not have 4wd or a high clearance vehicle.

Any beta regarding usual conditions this time of year will also be appreciated.

FoamFinger _______ · · Rad Town, Not set (USA) · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 250

Interested in some SkiMo?

Ron L Long · · Out yonder in Wisco. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 90

Baker, Glacier and Rainier can be great climbs, and doable solo depending on your comfort level, but hard to do as a day trip. How comfortable are you on active glaciers?

SW Chutes on Adams are a great solo, can be done in a long day depending on snow level (depends on how far you have to walk up the access road). From my experience, they are better as a light over night that time of year. Steep snow but crevasse free.

South slope of Hood s largely crevasse free.....easily done as a solo day.

If you make the drive, South and Middle Sister in Oregon are solos, long day to light over night.

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
Ron L Long wrote:Baker, Glacier and Rainier can be great climbs, and doable solo depending on your comfort level, but hard to do as a day trip. How comfortable are you on active glaciers?
It's illegal to solo rainier unless you have solo-permit and that is an application process that can take weeks to get approved. There are some cool peaks in the Tatoosh Range and Pyramid Peak that you can access from Paradise. Sounds like a fun trip!
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

For that time of year, with the exception of Hood and St. Helens none of the Cascade volcanoes are really day solo able unless you are on skis. That said if the weather is good one can easily pack light hike in, bivy, climb, and get back to the trail head over two days. South and Middle Sister would be non technical. South Side of Adams would be another.

For Hood I like to bivy at the Saddle and do a couple of routes. One can solo a variety of routes from there, South Side or West Crater Rim would be about as non technical as I would suggest.

As for weather - it can be great or a sideways pissing match. I'd plan for anything including going to Smith Rock.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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