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REI Dividend came in, new climber gear advice

Original Post
Ryan Dodd · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 10

Hey,

I just got my dividend from REI and its time I complete (almost) my sport climbing gear setup.

Currently I have:
Shoes
Harness
Chalk Bag
2x screwgate biners & 2x regular
bluewater eliminator 10.2mmx60
BD ATC Belay Device
TNF 60L pack

Here is what I am looking to buy. Majority of these items I feel should be bought new, plus my 20% off coupon expires in a few weeks.

Quickdraws- Positron quickpack

Belay device- BD ATC-guide
Its between this or the reverso 4. I believe this should be an upgrade and a better device then my original ATC.

Rope bag- between the dirtbag II and the super chute (leaning towards dirtbag)--could be bought used, but they arent too expensive.

Carabiners- I will probably pickup a few more BD positrons

This will come out to about 160-180 with my discount. My dividend is 170 so this should be about right.

If there is anything that I am missing that is essential (maybe a sling or 2) feel free to chime in.

I currently have not taken any official training for climbing but upon completing my gear I will start out in a gym this summer when I'm back in Denver.

Thanks for any input.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Buy a tarp.skip the rope bag..you get 8-10 biners for the same money and you can always use more biners..another pair of shoes you'll blow through soles quickly..generic nylon sling why spend $9 for a sling ?

ZackB · · Littleton, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Personally, I wouldn't get the Guide ATC (or similar) unless you plan on using it to belay up a second in "guide mode". The ATC and Guide ATC both work the same when belaying a leader or at the gym.

Justin Tomlinson · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 270
Christopher Chu · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40
john strand wrote:Buy a tarp.skip the rope bag..you get 8-10 biners for the same money and you can always use more biners..another pair of shoes you'll blow through soles quickly..generic nylon sling why spend $9 for a sling ?
skip the tarp, get an Ikea bag.
Brendan Magee · · Parker, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

If you are focusing on sport climbing get some quickdraws. Don't get another pair of shoes when you can just get them resoled. Get the ATC Guide or Reverso if you're planning to do multipitch otherwise you won't actually use it in guide mode. Some sort of generic sling or cord will be good for anchoring yourself to the chains/bolts at the tops of climbs. +1 for tarp to keep your rope out of the dirt.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Don't buy a new ATC. An ATC Guide or Reverso 4 offer literally no extra benefit for sport climbing. You may consider instead an assisted-locking device like a Trango Cinch, Petzl GriGri, Mammut Alpine Smart, or one of the various other similar devices. There are many choices, they each have pros and cons, and come at varying price points ($35 - $100+). They can increase your margin of safety and give your hand some relief when belaying a buddy who is hangdogging all afternoon. Ideally, try them out before deciding what to buy. Everyone has a different preference. It's CRITICAL to learn how to use them properly. Watch the "how-to" videos from the manufacturers - there are many idiots out there using them incorrectly and/or dangerously.

Don't buy a rope bag. The best rope bag is an Ikea bag - the big blue ones. They cost 50 cents, are lighter, and work better. Alternatively, a blue 8'x8' tarp for $5 works just as well and gives you a place to stand and change shoes if the ground is wet/muddy.

Definitely get 2 sewn slings. 1" nylon, 48" long. These are what you'll use to anchor in when you have to clean a sport climb. Personally, I just use a couple quickdraws, but either way, every climber needs slings for something or other.

Just in terms of general sport climbing, I also like to bring a pair of cheapo leather gardening gloves. Some people laugh, but at the end of the day, my hands are clean, not covered in aluminum oxide and dirt from the rope, and I save my skin for actual rock climbing. Haters gonna hate.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
ZackB wrote:Personally, I wouldn't get the Guide ATC (or similar) unless you plan on using it to belay up a second in "guide mode". The ATC and Guide ATC both work the same when belaying a leader or at the gym.
Great point, and if that indeed is the case, unless you plan on using super skinny ropes for this future multipitch lulz-patrolz, go with the BD Guide. I destroyed my deltoids on an alpine route trying to bring up 2 guys on 8.5MM half ropes with the Reverso 4 - promptly returned it, ropes wouldn't pull.
Ryan Dodd · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 10

Thank you for the quick responses!

based on them I will skip the rope bag and the ATC device.

I read a number of comments on the dumbest gear thread, but didnt make it through the whole thing.
I dont plan on climbing a TON so I'll wait to get another set of shoes till its needed.

I'll look into some other biners as mentioned.

Thanks again!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Helmet

48" Nylon sling for rapping

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424
cachu wrote: get an Ikea bag.
+1 to the Ikea bag. The best (and wicked cheap).
Paul Zander · · Bern, CH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 739

slings for extending anchors if you plan on toproping

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Extra pair of shoes is always nice so you can rotate them in while the others are getting resoled.

A couple long slings for anchors.

You can never have too many draws / biners.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Don't buy the reverso, it wears too quickly and the weight difference doesn't make sense as a sport climber. Draws a definitely good, carrying a sling or short prussik never hurts incase you need to tie off to an anchor. Slings are also good if you want to extend a clip. A helmet is a good idea for sketchy climbs or places with loose rock.

You mentioned that you havn't had any formal training, I would recommend a learn to lead outdoors class or something similar just to give you some formal background. These courses are usually in groups and are cheep but the skills learned are often critical. Many things are not as obvious as they seem and it helps to have formal training so you can be more confident as you progress in your climbing safely and responsibly. This is also critical if you plan on building anchors for belaying seconds or climbing on top rope.

L. Von Dommelheimer · · Anchorage · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,835

Gri gri.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Buy ALL of the chalk in every front range REI. Become a chalk oligarch.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

REI shopping list for sport climbing...

-Gri Gri
-10 cheapo BD draws. They're better than the cheap camp ones.
-2 24 inch Titan slings (for alpine draws w/ a locker on each) for setting up top anchor. When you're setting up your rap, you can extend one to clip in direct along w/ a PAS.
-a tent footprint from REI outlet for a tarp. Cheap and durable.
-helmet

Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

1" tubular webbing is versatile for top roping, and affordable.

+1 for helmet

And I'll be part of the minority that advocates FOR a rope bag. Especially if you don't plan on climbing a ton, it will keep your rope stashed neatly between climbs. When you want it, you chuck it in your car and go. I just used mine to take rope and helmet carry on to Vegas as a small personal item, with a good sized backpack with my rack and other gear. It's a metolius, and not one of those skinny ones that you have to smash the rope into. The tarp is big and it all flops into the bag easily, cinches tight and then has 2 straps with metal buckles to cinch it down again. I have 2 of this type, one with a sling te other wth backpack straps. It's bomber and I highly recommend it. One thing we all have in common is the understanding that you need a nice big tarp and the bag should be easy to use. I have an ikea bag but can't see myself tossing it into the car full of shared gear while carpooling to the crag or for camping. Plus it doesn't cinch down to save space and it could be awkward to bring on longer approaches. It can definitely be nice to have at the crag, but I won't be replacing my rope bags anytime soon.

Ryan Dodd · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 10

Thanks for everyones advice.

Based on what you all said, I ordered 7x BD freewire draws, 2 positron biners and the ENO doublenest/suspension system.

Ill stick with my ATC for now and use my current Taj3 footprint for my rope rope bag.

I will wait to buy the new pair of shoes, helmet, and slings until I am back up in denver and need them.

G Halsne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 1,487

+1 on buying ALL the chalk- this is brilliant
Get a rope bag. One with 2 backpack straps, then learn the art of finding a belay slave/ rope donkey.
Helmet? get a small folding stool, much cheaper for what you will really use it for...
Buy Draws-- Top roping is not "climbing"
Slings for an anchor? thats what the draws are for
Runners to extend a draw? Thats what more draws are for.
+1 on the ikea bag, but use it for to bring all your other junk, like meatballs and ipod speakers
Don't "not climb a ton" ...DO climb a TON.

Also, how big is your dividend? sounds like its a lot! If so, stop giving all your money to REI... you has no local mountain shops? :(

But really, have fun!! :)

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
G Halsne wrote: stop giving all your money to REI... you has no local mountain shops? :( But really, have fun!! :)
+1

Also, like others said, you never have too many shoes!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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