Equivocation Hitch

Interesting blog post:

Equivocation Hitch/ Testing

Looks interesting, just wish his illustration of how to tie the knot was better... his hands get in the way of seeing the first step of "pull a loop through" and further ones from there... which strand is he pulling through each time?

David, each time you pull the opposite rope.

Interesting knot and a cool trick, but holy shit if that isn't a dicey setup to rap with. This is like the trad texas rope trick; but worse.

If everything is done correctly you can rap down the load strand, but the knot can be released by pulling the other strand even if the primary strand is loaded. That means if you snag or pull on the other end of the rope on your way down, the whole setup releases. I have trouble thinking of a scenario where using this is my best option. seems it would be much more prudent to fix one end, rap down and fix the problem, then ascend the rope to setup a normal rap. I guess it works if you really have to get down immediately and want to roll the dice though.

The release strand is quite hard to pull when the rappel strand is loaded.

I first saw this technique years ago on a canyoneering website. I believe they called it the "Macrame" rappelling technique.

They suggested using it to avoid leaving behind any sling material. It was also suggested that using this technique rather than running the rope around a tree would minimize friction burn/damage to the tree and would also minimize the chance of the rope getting caught when pulled.

Uh oh Karsten, alpine death hitch :) I don't think most recreational climbers will have much occasion to use this. I'd be curious to know how much force was applied in the testing though and see videos of it failing. I know the first time I saw that I thought it was pretty sketchy but have grown confident in it's use. Not that I have much occasion for it. Although it's saved me a sling here and there.

As for the failure from pulling the non-load strand, that's difficult even when it's unloaded after you finish a rappel. I think it would be really hard with the rope loaded and depending on the number of loops probably wouldn't necessarily result in complete failure.

Several years ago an instructor at one of the local colleges in my area was using this hitch to rappel down from a climb his class had just finished. He fell to his death when he set up and pulled the wrong strand. It was very sad. Just be careful using this hitch. It has its uses but also has some major drawbacks.
Dallen

I tried it. Not in anger, in my basement. As Karsten wrote it IS quite hard to pull the release side when the rappel side is loaded.Not sure I would use this for real. But, if you do, maybe clip a carabiner in the loop for everyone but the last person down.

Though, in reality, is it any worse that some of the fiddle stick and other arrangements that canyoneers use?

Looks like a bunch of mule knots piled up on each other basically. With that being said it look sketchy as balls and not something I would use on a regular basis.

Not sure yet how I feel about the knot, but being right next to a pull test seems pretty sketchy...

Canyoneers have used this system for years to rap off trees without having to pull the full ropelength around the tree when retrieving, something that quickly grooves and then kills the tree. The application is to situations they call "ghosting," which refers to traveling the canyon without leaving any trace of one's passage.

They call this hitch "Macrame;" see for example

treebuzz.com/forum/images/u…

It is a bit sad that climbers don't even have the concept of ghosting, much less the practice itself.

rgold wrote:C They call this hitch "Macrame;"

This is called a "Dufour" knot in France. Used quite extensively in mountaineering in two situations:

• When there is a high risk that the rope will get stuck on whatever you plan to rappel off of (large boulder, a tree, etc.).
• If a section of the rope is damaged.

When I saw the knot for the first time it seemed risky, but with enough practice on the ground it's pretty obvious which strand to thread through the device and which strand is meant to pull once at the next anchor / on the ground.

rgold wrote: They call this hitch "Macrame;" see for example treebuzz.com/forum/images/u…

RGold, thanks. The link you posted shows more "weaves" than the video Karsten made. I'd feel better about those minimum 5 weaves than the 3 shown in the video.

It's surprisingly difficult to release it when under load. But, I'd still clip a carabiner in that loop for all but the last person down.

I like it.