Bolting at the Choss Garden
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I've heard a group is going up to the Choss Garden this weekend to do some re-bolting, etc. |
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Mark Lewis wrote:Are you all just replacing bolts, or adding some new anchors that actually make sense on some of those lines?What do you mean by adding new anchors that make sense? Very few of the bolts need replacement. Some/most the anchors do. |
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Boissal wrote: What do you mean by adding new anchors that make sense? Very few of the bolts need replacement. Some/most the anchors do.Many of the bolts were replaced last year, which is awesome. 'Some/most the anchors do.' - that's exactly why I made the comment about upgrading the anchors... |
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clay posted on my bolting thread that they were heading up the first weekend in april. |
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Spencer Weiler wrote:Boissal, I personally would enjoy some of the bolts on the 11's there replaced, as they seem old, but I agree the anchors are the biggest concern. I think Mark may be referring to some of the routes only having one bolt for an anchor in reference to "making sense"?Agreed, there are few button heads here and there which aren't all that inspiring. Same goes for the pins, they both look fine but I'm not too psyched on catching air on them... As far as the single bolts anchors, the routes go to the top and the "headwall" is really good - except on DOF which has a chossy ending. Chains extending over the lip would make every one of the lines OK to lower from and extend them with fun climbing. The anchor on top of Daisy/Touchy Subject is a great example of that (except it's ready to pop out). |
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Also, the rebolting won't be happening this weekend, probably next. |
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Mark we will post on this thread and let you know when it's going to happen. |
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SHAME ON MIKE WHITE FOR INCONVENIENCING THE PEOPLE |
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mikewhite wrote: Mark we will post on this thread and let you know when it's going to happen. We will be doing glue in bolts, so some of the routes may be closed for a couple days while the glue cures. Tags with dates will be left on the routes affected. I apologize for any inconvenience this may bring.A couple of days to cure? What are you using? JB Weld? |
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user id wrote: A couple of days to cure? What are you using? JB Weld?Some of the glue systems require 72 hours to cure at 5 degree C. Note the high/low temp's this weekend range from 34-58F. Cold=longer cure times. Mike, what glue? Hilti or Powers? |
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Yeah, the bent washers with chains ready to pop off of the bolts is one of the anchors that scared me shitless. The original/intermediate anchor on touchy subject has a 5/16" buttonhead spinner, and the other bolt is in a 4 inch by 4 inch loose block that vibrates when I hit my knuckles on it. I know Boissal wants all the lower anchors gone, which would be fine with me if the bolting job above there was any good, but those extensions are kind of fucked up. With anchors in places that make sense, and with good hardware, this would be a really nice wall. There is a great place for an anchor that makes sense on Depth of Field... instead of two bolts 4 feet apart horizontally with one biner on each???? WTF! |
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Is your concern on the extensions the anchor itself or do you think the 3 new bolts are also sketch? |
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mikewhite wrote: Mark we will post on this thread and let you know when it's going to happen. We will be doing glue in bolts, so some of the routes may be closed for a couple days while the glue cures. Tags with dates will be left on the routes affected. I apologize for any inconvenience this may bring.Thanks Mike for the head's up. Glue-in's will be awesome - much appreciation to you guys for upgrading the hardware at this crag! |
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I agree with what you are saying. My main concern is mainly the anchors. |
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Hilti glue Brian. |
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Thanks for the service you guys. Still haven't visited the Choss Garden, but now after this I've got no excuse. |
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Since you guys are planning on using Hilti, take a look at the newer HY 200 A/R products. HY 200 R cures a nice brown that will match nicely at the Choss Garden and it will be cured in 1-2 hours depending how cold it is. HY 200 A has an accelerated cure and ends up gray. Both of these work well in low temperatures down to 15 F. The RE 500 SD which would take around a day to cure is great especially in wet holes or even underwater, but it's red and it's rated for installation temps above 40 F. I think it is overkill for this application, and it is easy to end up with a red mess around the anchor. |
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jonathan knight wrote:I think it is overkill for this application, and it is easy to end up with a red mess around the anchor.Yeah I was kinda looking for overkill. I talked to the hilti reps and they recommended the re 500 along with the asca. Planning on using duct tape around the holes and lots of paper towels there won't be any mess. Using fixe and wave bolts. |
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You have a day picked out yet? If I'm in town, I'll come haul some crap up there. |
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I think removing the middle anchors is a bad idea. There aren't very many warmups on this wall and those anchors are often the best place to stop. The extensions are just that: extensions to established lines so let them stay that way. |
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I agree with Tenys last comment. The climbing and the bolting isn't that great on those extensions. Not that the bolts are bad, but they are super hard to clip, and way out of reach from the natural stances if you are only 5'9". I think the lower anchors should stay(and be updated). From what I heard, the crag was originally equipped in only two days, right before the Ruckman guide first came out. It was called the choss garden because it wasn't completely finished, and the routes had not been cleaned too much. Not too many of the anchors make any sense where they are, and quite a few of them are either bad hardware or in poor, shattered rock. I've looked at all the right side routes with Lance, and have a bit of a plan. |