Boots for both ice climbing and general summer mountaineering
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Does such a boot exist? I am interested in trying out both disciplines, but would prefer not to splurge on 2 different boots as I don't plan to do these activities that many times in my life. |
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It'll be pushing it, but I supposed you "might" be able to pull it off as long as you aren't hitting the extreme weather days. I use the Scarpa Triolet for summer, and had the Charmoz before that. Found the sharmoz to actually be a little cold for snow. Lowa makes a pretty decent boot as well. |
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I'm trying to do this with Scarpa Mont Blanc's but I only use full boots for alpine snow/ice in the summer. For other summer activities I break the exum guides or low cut merrell chameleons. |
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Yeah, I figured it would be difficult to balance the different temperature requirements. I wouldn't be trying to do these activities in a major storm. |
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What do you mean by general summer mountaineering? Are you thinking alpine rock, snow and glacier routes or more technical climbing? |
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Yes, by general summer mountaineering I mean alpine rock, snow and glacier routes. |
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mauhler31 wrote:Yes, by general summer mountaineering I mean alpine rock, snow and glacier routes. What is more technical? Vertical ice or technical rock climbing?Gen mtn for me is stuff that is mostly walking, some step-kicking, gentle ice, easy rock. Say, stuff to 5.7 and WI4. This, the traditional leather boots handle easily. By 'more technical' I would think of things like the big north faces, rock at 5.9+, mixed around M6 and ice of WI5 and over. Stuff that's long and would require rock shoes and technical ice tools. I'd hate to be dragging the heavy leather boots up routes like this! |
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sportiva.com/products/footw…
I have an older version of these. They ice climb great, and I've used them on summer glaciers and been very happy. They are good to about 10-15 degrees F. Any colder than that and my toes get cold belaying. |
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I just did some googling for your size shoe and man...most start at 6 with the Lowa's at 5.5 being the lowest of what I saw. |
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I have a pair of size 6 women's la sportive leather boots (older model) that I am trying to sell. I wore them ice climbing for two years and they should work for mountaineering. |
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Thanks everyone for the input! It sounds like the general purpose leather mountaineering boots should suffice as long as I'm doing easier ice. |
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Scarpa Rebel Pros - they are ridiculously light, but warm enough for winter ice climbing. |
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I have Lowa mountain experts. I've used them about 2 years and have done WI5 ice mixed routes summer alpine and a winter ascent of rainier in them (feet were kinda cold on that one but not horrible) |
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I'd say good luck in your search ! I don't believe your going to find anything but compromises , if you have cold feet like I do then your pretty much going to have to go with two different boots or suffer on cold days . Every Insole I've ever tried does not do much to keep your feet warm when your wearing crampons and standing on ice all day in 30 deg or below weather . Idk what anyone says . |
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I assume your "summer mountaineering" refers to technical snow travel. My friend has a pair of salewa pro gaitors that he uses in "walk mode" for mountaineering adventures, and "climb mode" for climbing. He seems to like them, but they can be difficult to change on the go. Try a pair on. |
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Check out the Kayland Apex xt if you can still find them- They have been great boots for me. I use them for just about anything but extreme cold- and they are light and comfortable with a good rocker sole for long hikes. |
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I have a pair of the Scarpa Rebel Ultras and they are amazing... super light for a full-blown ice boot and still great for alpine stuff like: Alps in summer, Can. Rockies, Patagonia etc. I wouldn't hesitate to take this boot anywhere short of super-cold environs. Good luck. |
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Ultimately you're going to have to accept a boot which is too warm on the hottest summer days, too cold on the coldest winter days, and perhaps too stiff for hiking; however, there are plenty of boots which would meet your needs: |
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Thanks everyone for all the suggestions! I'll be sure to check them all out. |
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I'd like to ad that my suggestion to the lows mountain expert. My feet were barely cold at -20 constantly at 14k. But I do have warm feet |