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Beaking In Tongues
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A4
Avg: 4 from 8
votes
Routes in The Oracle
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Beak to the Future T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ |
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Beaking In Tongues 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 |
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Curse the Gods T A4+ |
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Empire of Dirt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Fantasia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2+ R |
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| Type: | Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Dave Levine April 1997 |
| Page Views: | 9,769 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Forrester on Jan 14, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch one - 20 feet of mud manteling leads to a #1 pecker placement. Beaks are interspersed with some good cam placements (A3).(140')
Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')
Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')
Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').
Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)
Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)
Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'
Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.
Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')
Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')
Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').
Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)
Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)
Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'
Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.
Location
Hike the Fishers Trail around past Cottontail. After the metal stairs, hike up the yellow ridge that drops down between the south side of echo and the oracle. Hike up pretty high before cutting out right to the base of the climb.
Protection
Beaks, beaks and more beaks. If you don't bring beaks on this route, you are foolish. For most of the pitches the largest cam you need is a number 3 camalot. However, there are two pitches where we found a #4 and #5 camalot to be pretty essential. Other than that, just bring the standard fishers aid jingus.
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