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Munter Backup

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Nate Solnit wrote: Bearbreeder, I don't see how that canyoneering accident is relevant. He rigged his system wrong. That's like citing the guy who tried to rap with nothing but a shoelace. He didn't fall because of poor technique. He fell because he trusted a faulty system. Since you're equating rappelling to belaying, that's like decking because your piece blew and then blaming the belayer. Yeah a belayer can make a nice dynamic catch to try and avoid that, but at the end of the day a shit piece is a shit piece.
simple

keep both hands below the device .. and train yourself to NOT let go of the brake ... this is a basic fundamental thing which i see people who learn and never rap without a prussic violate time and time again

advanced rock climbing by john long and craig luebben

if your belayer gets dragged into the wall when lowering you with one hand puts out that hand onto the wall to brace himself, and loses control of the brake ... do you solve the issue with a grigri?

or do you go through the basics again over and over again?

i dont know why everyone suddenly wants to use prussics to make up for basic rap technique and brake control

again im NOT saying dont use a backup ... but rather dont use it to make up for poor rapping technique and brake control

if a person cant "self lower" (rap) with proper control, how in the world will they belay you safely, never mind catch falls???

just as theres a reason why you PRACTICE the munter and biner brake ... practice rapping without a prussik as you may find yourself without one, whether you are a newbie or old geezer ... have someone give you a firemans if yr worried

remember its a BACKUP ... with everything that word entails, especially if like a lot of folks out there you clip it with a non-locking biner

;)
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Mark O'Neal wrote:To the OP, how about trying a monster munter? Lot's of extra friction and much less rope twist than a regular munter.
This works well with a 7.7mm ice line, but with a 10.5mm rope then unless you weigh a lot and the cliff overhanging it will be a very slow rap.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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