PAS idea

nicelegs wrote:This thread is a Alex Lowe quote attributed to Jeff and an admonition to wear a helmet away from being complete.

In the words of Jeff Lowe, "The best climber is the one who has the most helmets".

SexPanther aka Kiedis wrote:I met a guy who had a really bad case of PAS once, you could tell from a mile away. Persistent Anus Syndrome. It affects so many of our nation's sport climbers. You will be forgotten...

Did you let him wear your roman war helmet while you untied the balloon knot in his PAS?

I'm thinking of using my climbing rope with a clove. I know dmm didn't do completely irrelevent testing with it, but shit, with a triple seven zipping the heavens through the space time continuum to avoid the big dirt nap party with baby Jesus, it's worth a try.

Skullybones wrote: Redundant minus the one belay loop they're attached to.

I don't mind that my belay loop is not redundant because it something in my control, a known. I don't like trusting one bolt because its hard to determine if the bolt is good or shit; its out of my control,mostly unknown. Since there are usually two bolts per anchor, i like to clip into both independently.

is your point that it doesn't matter if the slings are redundant because your belay loop isn't redundant or do you just like to sport two harnesses? if the latter, please enclose pictures

Gah. Threads like this show how little many climbers understand about the systems they use. Damnit.

matt c. wrote: I don't mind that my belay loop is not redundant

Belay loops are good for like 50kn and are multidirectional. They hold because of the friction generated in the multi-loop, the bar tacks see very little actual load. You would break the biner, the sling, or the bolt before that belay loop comes apart.

Now as we learned from the investigation following Todd ;) Skinners death. Long term contact between a sling and the belay loop results in additional friction and wear, which can cause a premature failure. Looks to be a personal judgment every climber's to make. Safety wise...we should all be diligent about inspecting our belay loops regularly, girth hitch or not.

matt c. wrote: I don't like trusting one bolt because its hard to determine if the bolt is good or shit; its out of my control,mostly unknown. Since there are usually two bolts per anchor, i like to clip into both independently.

This is spot on, mostly.
Adam clipped to one HUGE bolt on a flat ledge which several people could easy sleep on. Each station is different and in this situation the decision was made to go with a single component anchor, similar to the huge single tree stations we use, while rigging the rappel. All things do not have to be redundant always.

If the bolts were suspect or the stance was hanging then clipping into an anchor is appropriate. I will usually use the same anchor a 48" sling with an overhand, that I used on the way up, on the way down. I don't untie it and usually can achieve decent equalization by simply choosing the right combination of links, bolts or rings.

This way you have a master point that everyone who is rappelling can clip to with the rig Adam demonstrated. 2 or 3 people rapping results in 2 or 3 biners in a master point rather than 4 to 6 slings clipped into various links, bolts or rings.

Oh and soft goods, rope and slings, get tied or hitched through both points. Hard goods, metal stuff, goes in the belay loop. Mostly.

Robert Scrivner wrote:Anyone ever made a simple PAS out of a cheap runner like this? Want to get some thoughts from the wise before I use this idea.

As others have said, lots of people.

That looks skinny enough to be a dyneema (or equivalent other-brand-name material) sling. I'd prefer to do it with nylon, since a nylon sling is a bit more dynamic.

Maurice Chaunders wrote:Regarding that PAS...make sure to sling it down under your chode and clip to your chalk bag.

As someone who only has one testicle left I think this is a terrible idea. There is a way to clip it to one of your side loops without it getting in the way. Just think outside the box and you'll figure it out.

Ed Wright wrote: As someone who only has one testicle left I think this is a terrible idea.

/thread

David Gibbs wrote: As others have said, lots of people. That looks skinny enough to be a dyneema (or equivalent other-brand-name material) sling. I'd prefer to do it with nylon, since a nylon sling is a bit more dynamic.

No PAS thread would be complete without a gem like this.

so far what I've gathered from this thread is that the jury is still out on the whole "daisychain g-string" thing

I'd pay good, good money fr one of those, when it reaches retirement age. As long as you could get in a ziplock bag immediately.