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Advice for a Destination (Beginning Climber)

Original Post
Travis Kern · · Minneapolis, Minnesota · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

My friend and I have been climbing for about a year. We started climbing outside last summer on top rope. Then, when it got cold in Minnesota, we purchased a gym membership. We were lead belay certified a couple months ago and are sport climbing (inside) at a range of 5.8-5.10 A/B depending on the pitch. At this point, overhanging stuff seems to be very difficult, unless it's right at the beginning of our climbing where we have the strength. A more technical (corner or crack) 5.10 A/B seems to be easier to accomplish than a pitched 5.9.

I'd like to go somewhere in early June that has a large variety of single pitch sport climbs in this beginner range. For me, this is first and foremost about feeling more confident sport climbing on rock, so I don't want complicated, just lots of variety. A place where we could put in a weeks worth of climbing everyday. Also, I'd like to stay under 20 hours of driving, which from Minneapolis puts us as far West as the eastern Idaho border, northern Utah/West Colorado, or east to West Virginia/Kentucky area. From my research I have found some places that would seem to fit this criteria.

Red River Gorge
New River Gorge
Tensleep Canyon
Maple Canyon
City of Rocks

What say you? Thanks a million!

will smith · · boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 35

You didn't list the Boulder, front range which would work fine except for the camping issues. Avoid the City of Rock because of possible weather issues my luck has been bad there often rainy, check the long range weather forecast other wise the city is a great place one of my faves.

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

I find Tensleep is way better in the 11-12 range than in the single digits. If I'm climbing moderate limestone, I have much more fun at just about any random Montana crag than at Tensleep. As the grades rise, however, Tensleep delivers with world class movement on perfect rock.

I'd almost recommend Smith, but it would be very hot and it's a long drive for you. Maple was tons of fun the one time I was there. City of Rocks is a good time, but many of my favorite routes were super runout and committing.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

Utah- Within a couple of hours you could sample several styles of rock. City of Rocks/Castle Rock has some amazing sport and fun easy multi-pitch sport routes. Big Cottonwood Canyon has great sport routes in the grades that you are looking for. Little has some but not a lot of sport in that grade. move south and climb in American Fork Canyon (all sport) lots of .tens. Rock Canyon has whole walls of .tens. then head off to Maple Canyon. Good camping close to or at all these areas.
Dallen

mbakerwh · · Gallup, NM · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Last spring, I spent a week with about 7 new climbers and 2 other experienced climbers in the Red River Gorge. It's an absolutely fabulous place, lots to climb--I would warn that many of the 5.6-5.8 climbs we did were trad lines, not sport, but if you're good leading sport up to 5.9/10 you'll have more than enough to do. Also there's lots of great Forest Service camping for very little moneys.

Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

I would highly recommend Spearfish Canyon. mountainproject.com/v/spear…. It's a nine hour drive from the cities, has hundreds if not thousands of well bolted sport routes. And for variety just head to the southern hills and explore the Mt Rushmore area where you'll find sportier "sport routes" as well as world class bouldering on impressive granite blocks. Little to no crowds and plenty to do on the rest days. Look no further. You could always get a guide and go up Devils Tower as well.

SteveZ · · Excelsior, MN · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 431

I would second Spearfish for all the reasons Wilson said. I haven't climbed at City of rocks or Tensleep but of the others Spearfish will have a lot more for you to do and it's closer. It's also further north and at decent elevation so it shouldn't be unbearably hot. Always easy to catch shade in the canyon too.

That said, the New is probably the best place I've ever sport climbed.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

You still have like 2 months right? Work on your technique/endurance on overhanging stuff in the gym. That will open up a lot of options for you (also IMO overhanging sport is more fun).

JonW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0
SteveZ wrote:That said, the New is probably the best place I've ever sport climbed.
I agree with this opinion. The NRG area has many crags with lots of routes in the grade range you're looking for. Somerville Lake is a great crag - awesome routes (many beginner routes) and great swimming.
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Cirque of the Unclimbable's or the Ruth Gorge

Gretchen 81 · · Longview, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 60

I'm not sure if the drive fits your criteria, but Shelf Road outside of Canon City, CO is a great place for moderate single pitch sport. It is very well signed/market, has a great guidebook...beautiful (and cheap) camping too. You can walk to the crag from your tent.

sharyl Crossley · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

This maybe. Out of your range...but check out horseshoe canyon ranch in northern Arkansas. Tons of stuff...beautiful...great camping...goats...

Jon Powell · · LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 110

I did not read all the responses so this may have already been covered. But it looks like most of your leading has been done in the gym. Have you learned proper ways to clean anchors? Also leading outside can be totally different than leading in the gym where the draws can be as close as 4 ft apart and outside as much as 10 ft or more apart. Make sure you have a personal anchor and a bale biner. Also if your not strong on over hanging routes I would invest in a stick clip. You mentioned the Red. Lots of moderates at the Red start off over hanging with high first bolts. Be safe and do not focus on the grade as much when starting outside. Have fun and get use to it then progress.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
sharyl wrote:This maybe. Out of your range...but check out horseshoe canyon ranch in northern Arkansas. Tons of stuff...beautiful...great camping...goats...
I second this suggestion of Arkansas. At HCR you can walk from camp to the crag, there are TONS of well-bolted easier climbs, and at about 10 hrs awayu it's actually closer to MN than any other suggestination. Also, its sandstone, like that of the RRG, tends to be one of the easiest rocks from which to make the transition from the gym to the crag.

If you want more quantity than HCR, definitely check out the Red, about 12 hrs away. Muir Valley will have more than enough of the types of climbs you're looking for
(Just make sure you donate some cash )

Other than that, I would discourage City of Rocks, given unstable weather as mentioned above, and also because it does not have THAT many bolted beginner climbs. Same with Ten Sleep. Maple would be fun, but it is about the LEAST diverse and variety-type place that I've climbed, and I would not recommend you making the two-day drive there. NRG would be nice, as mentioned, but I don't think it has the concentration of route levels that you're looking for, and if it rains there (which it will), there are next to no beginner routes that stay dry.

Short version: go to the Red or Horseshoe Canyon.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
Gretchen 81 wrote:I'm not sure if the drive fits your criteria, but Shelf Road outside of Canon City, CO is a great place for moderate single pitch sport. It is very well signed/market, has a great guidebook...beautiful (and cheap) camping too. You can walk to the crag from your tent.
Shelf is a good choice,,sun and shade. Eleven mile canyon is nearby as well with slabbier, granite stuff...pretty nice.Tanner Dome too
These 3 should give you a few hundred climbs in the easier rades
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

I'd 2nd Mr. Powell's concerns. Climbing outside presents a different set of problems, and if you are new to it can be a whole new animal. When I go to a new crag (to me), I need a few days to learn the scale of how the climbs are rated. I'll start a few grades below what I'd normally get on. Work up into the harder stuff. I'd suggest you look toward someplace heavy in the 5.7-9's. Spearfish seems to be ideal.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

You need to be solid on .11's to make most of those trips worthwhile. I'd say go to Shelf Road or Pentente.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

I'd observe... don't put too much trust in the advice from Colorado's "Front Rangers"... as they live amongst climbing MUTANTS, and their idea of moderate can seem pretty twisted for some...and if you are coming straight out of a flat lands gym, might seem plain cruel or even murderous. I'd simply advise caution. ;)

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

I would say RRG look at the routes they have some fun stuff. Plates, Pockets and jugs its good to get outside on that stuff.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

+1 for city of rocks~!

I've climbed there plenty in June, and haven't been shut down by weather at all. Castle rocks SP has fully bolted single and multi-pitch beginner lines, and so does the city, you just have to look around. Some routes are runout and sketchy but choose wisely. If you go there, check out the routes Theater of Shadows (5.7) and Sinocranium (5.8 crux, mostly 5.3). Zinger (5.8) at Castle rock is really good too.

I also love the new river gorge but there's not much climbing there in the single digits. Never been to the Red.

As others have said, practice cleaning and rappelling. You can do this in the gym. Have fun!

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

I climb in a similar range (though I'm happy leading trad as well, which opens up a lot more of the easy stuff everywhere), and I can't comment on the western stuff -- but for the east, I'd recommend the Red over the New. A lot more easy to moderate stuff available at the Red -- while looking at the New, you really should be confident on hard 10s to 11s to have a lot of climbs available.

Of course, if hitting the Red, the New isn't that far away -- and it wouldn't be hard to do both in the same trip.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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