Tethys
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 46 votes
Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | 1998 -Savage |
Page Views: | 6,987 total · 40/month |
Shared By: | Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.
Description
From the toe of the buttress that separates the First Corridor from the Pangea Wall, locate the wide crack/slot feature that begins about six feet from the base and angles up to the left. Climb cobbles to reach the crack and continue to a high first bolt above the end to the crack/slot. Continue pulling knobs up the slab to a very large block as the buttress steepens into a broad arete. Here a fourth bolt is found to facilitate the transition to the left of the arete below the block. Continue climbing up the face left of the arete to a 6th bolt on a steep knobby face. Pull the crux and continue to the anchor. Rappel from here, or climb a 2nd runout pitch through large blocks, copious amounts of bird guano, and knobs to the summit. Tethys makes an awesome 170 ft single pitch outing with 10 quickdraws and an anchor.
Location
Tethys begins at the NW corner of the Pangea Wall, at the bottom of the First Corridor. This is the right hand edge (west end) of Pangea Wall across the mouth of the corridor from Heat Wave and Pain at the Pump and left of Hook 'em Horns.
Protection
P1 - 6 bolts to Fixe two ring anchor.
P2 - 3 bolts to chains.
The route is fully bolted, but this is NOT a sport route. There are significant runouts between bolts. There is a new P2 anchor with 1/2" x 5" bolts and chains. The rope pulls as smooth as butter from the P1 Tethys or Kronos anchor, so no need to traverse over to the "Cascada" anchor to descend.
11 Comments