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Rodeo Girls in Bondage
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gimme Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iridescence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Brian Smoot and Bill Robins, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,854 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Ricketts on Jun 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route roughly follow the arete on the left side of the Dragon Arch wall. We did it in 3 pitches. There is a lot of bad rock with not fun climbing on this. However, mixed into the grass, choss, and kitty litter are a few sections of good rock and interesting moves. One of these sections with good rock as pro that would probably catch a lead fall, the other section has no pro.
P1: Follow the dirty gully up to flakes on the right side of the gully. Continue up the flakes to a small stance with a 2 pin anchor on the arete. The pins were ok. 5.8,70'.
P2: Undercling out the crack to the right past a pin. The crack quickly turns vertical. Follow it past another pin and around to the left side of the arete. Continue up the face on good, knobby rock with pro that will probably catch you. Aim for a small ledge in a chossy right facing corner made of stacked flakes and dirt. Follow the corner until you can stand on top of it. Stare at the short nicely featured face above with no pro. I climbed this face on the right side near the arete to a ledge with a large pine tree as an anchor. There is a crack/water groove to the left that did not look like it would take pro. 5.9+,150'
P3: We followed the wide crack with some fun climbing up to a ledge. Here my partner traversed way right across a bunch of rotten flakes to a 2 bolt anchor that I think is the top of Enter the Dragon. 5.8,60'
Two single rope raps brings you to the base of Valentines Crack. We did a short rap to the anchors for P1 of Enter the Dragon and then one long one to the ground.
P1: Follow the dirty gully up to flakes on the right side of the gully. Continue up the flakes to a small stance with a 2 pin anchor on the arete. The pins were ok. 5.8,70'.
P2: Undercling out the crack to the right past a pin. The crack quickly turns vertical. Follow it past another pin and around to the left side of the arete. Continue up the face on good, knobby rock with pro that will probably catch you. Aim for a small ledge in a chossy right facing corner made of stacked flakes and dirt. Follow the corner until you can stand on top of it. Stare at the short nicely featured face above with no pro. I climbed this face on the right side near the arete to a ledge with a large pine tree as an anchor. There is a crack/water groove to the left that did not look like it would take pro. 5.9+,150'
P3: We followed the wide crack with some fun climbing up to a ledge. Here my partner traversed way right across a bunch of rotten flakes to a 2 bolt anchor that I think is the top of Enter the Dragon. 5.8,60'
Two single rope raps brings you to the base of Valentines Crack. We did a short rap to the anchors for P1 of Enter the Dragon and then one long one to the ground.
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