Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | David Rubine and Will Chen - 1989 |
Page Views: | 2,015 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Keith Forest on May 25, 2010 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
The Siren is an exceptional face route on the downhill side of Lower Phantom Spire. It follows a line of 10 bolts to the top. It is noted by an obvious roof about two thirds up the spire. Surmounting the roof is the crux.
There is a bolt belay just before the crux for those wanting to do a 5.11a or do it in two pitches. The rock is perfect and the climbing consistently challenging. The route was established ground up and on sight.
There is a bolt belay just before the crux for those wanting to do a 5.11a or do it in two pitches. The rock is perfect and the climbing consistently challenging. The route was established ground up and on sight.
Location
Lower Phantom Spire. Located on the downhill left-hand side facing the spire. Starts off a walk-on ledge, up a short/steep/shallow/crack-less corner past two bolts to a third bolt and stance. The route then traverses to the left and up to the roof past a series of bolts to the top. Rap off back/uphill side.
Photos
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