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Rock Climber's Training Manual

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
JLP wrote:Didn't see a way to buy the "Three-Season Training Log", would rather just make 1 transaction for the full package if possible.
First, each book includes a free, 1-season logbook. So everyone gets a logbook. You probably know that but I just want to make that clear.

Second, we are working on it and we should have an option to add 3-season logbooks ($3.95 each) by early next week. I will post something when that is ready to go. Thanks for the suggestion.
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
Jon Frisby wrote: Question - do you think someone will derive a lot of benefit from the book without being willing to go full-on with the periodization schedule?
Jon, I think there is a lot of useful information beyond the periodization aspect. There is a lot of information on goal setting, skill development, generally physiology, weight management, and redpoint, onsight, bouldering and big wall free climbing tactics. Additionally, it would be easy to cherry pick workouts here and there to meet your own needs.

That said, the book includes a variety of training schedules and an extensive discussion on how to tailor those schedules to meet each climber's needs. I think you could find a schedule and tweak it to make it fit your lifestyle. The book describes wasy to do this.
GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I bought this book, hopefully I'll actually start training despite having a couple of Horst's books sitting on my coffee table.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837
rockandice.com/lates-news/m…

Also, I replied to your PM, Monomaniac. :-)
Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061
Jon Frisby wrote:I just know that if I were to do something like, for instance, 11 straight sessions of hang boarding, it would be so hard to keep it up that I wouldn't stay on top of my training.
You might be surprised. For me, after about 5 years of 3 cycles per year I settled on 8 HB sessions. YMMV, but that's where I always plateau. And I find I get to do a lot of things I normallu miss out on during that time. Ride my bikes more, play with my nieces and nephews more, stuff like that.

I'm on #2 of the phase today. Climbed outside on Sat, and today rode home after work, did my HB workout, did a rice bucket and antagonists workout, and am now watching my neighbors' kid, playing legos and watching spongebob...and eating their cookies. WIN!
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
rockandice.com/lates-news/m…

Awesome and inspiring, but I found the Rock and Ice article and Mark's blog post to be disappointing. I was really hoping for a quote along the line of "Training works, bitches. Buy my book." But Mark seems to be a bit too classy to tell it like it is.
Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

haha. I'm sold.

Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135

I dont mind this spam, your blog and post over the years have been invaluable as source of information, cant wait to get my copy.

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

I'll be buying this!

BTW, this is not spam IMHO. Monomaniac has freely shared training advice on this forum for YEARS. He has answered questions, shared his experience and generally gave away training info that was priceless to those of us trying to improve through training. To have all that info (and I am sure more) in a book is a great benefit for the climbing community and I am happy to learn about it through this forum. - End ball cupping rant.

Toby Butterfield · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 140

Definitely not spam! Jeesh! I pre-ordered and am very excited -- a training plan based off the old Rockprodigy post on rc.com helped me get back into shape (and then some) this past winter after an injury.

It was great (awkwardly) meeting you at Smith a few months back, Mark. Can't wait to see the result of all your hard work on this!

Will Cohen · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 80

Just curious as I didn't see it elsewhere, what ability level is this book marketed toward?

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
kerwinl wrote:I dont mind this spam, your blog and post over the years have been invaluable as source of information, cant wait to get my copy.
Honestly I'll be the first to step up to the plate and call Monomaniac a money-grubbing book spammer but the troll won't go through since he has dedicated literally hundreds (thousands?) of hours over the last DECADE PLUS to helping out newbies get a grip on the concepts for training for climbing.

:)
Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270
5.samadhi wrote: Honestly I'll be the first to step up to the plate and call Monomaniac a money-grubbing book spammer but the troll won't go through since he has dedicated literally hundreds (thousands?) of hours over the last DECADE PLUS to helping out newbies get a grip on the concepts for training for climbing. :)
Yup. Mark literally responded in a way more complete and useful way than I even asked for to a training question I PM'd him about... within about 20 minutes.
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

You guys are too kind, thank you. I really think of the book as a collaboration in a lot of ways. Many people on this forum really encouraged us to write a book in the first place, but also I've learned a lot interacting with all of you, I've had my ideas challenged, and been inspired to investigate new ideas. So I hope you will all think of it as your book too in that sense.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960

Good luck with your book!!! Looks rad... so MP admin discount? lol

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
WillamR wrote:Just curious as I didn't see it elsewhere, what ability level is this book marketed toward?
William,

The book truly is intended to help climbers of any ability that are looking to improve. That may sound like lip service, but the entire program is scaled to fit climbers of varying abilities/training experience. Each section has Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced workouts, and we have training plans for all three, as well as specific plans for Bouldering and Trad Climbing.

When we started to develop our training methods we were both 5.10 climbers. We remember very well what that was like, and I think we've done a good job of tailoring the book to address the needs of climbers at a every level of the sport.
Mark
sanz · · Pisgah Forest, NC · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 210

Looking forward to it!

Marek Sapkovski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 65

This looks like advanced training guide, finally, very exciting. I am a little bit torn between this and buying "Gimme Kraft!" - would you say the two books are parallel or complimentary?

Will Cohen · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 80
Monomaniac wrote: William, The book truly is intended to help climbers of any ability that are looking to improve. That may sound like lip service, but the entire program is scaled to fit climbers of varying abilities/training experience. Each section has Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced workouts, and we have training plans for all three, as well as specific plans for Bouldering and Trad Climbing. When we started to develop our training methods we were both 5.10 climbers. We remember very well what that was like, and I think we've done a good job of tailoring the book to address the needs of climbers at a every level of the sport. Mark
Mark,

Sounds great! I personally see a skyrocket in progress in every facet in life when I structure my training. I'll be on the beginner end of this book's scope, so hopefully I'll be able to milk it for all it's worth!

--Looking forward to it

Will
Adam Leedy · · Austin, TX · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 760
Marek Sapkovski wrote:This looks like advanced training guide, finally, very exciting. I am a little bit torn between this and buying "Gimme Kraft!" - would you say the two books are parallel or complimentary?
I would suggest buying both.
I've had Gimme Kraft since January and I love it. I've been doing a lot of the workouts at least twice a week. I haven't however, seen any marked increase in my climbing as a result. What I have noticed is a drastic improvement in overall health. A lot of my shoulder problems have disappeared, for example. The rings, sling trainer, and floor workouts are awesome for antagonist training which is why I think I feel generally much healthier and less injured since I started the Kraft workouts.

Based on past experience with the Rock Prodigy system, I would say RCTM is more likely to help you boost your climbing grades and the Kraft book will help you have much better all around fitness. I expect RCTM to be more of complete training plan while Kraft is just a book full of exercises. Having both would be a hell of a combo.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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