Mama Says Knock You Out (Epidote?)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Alvino Pon and Mark Pell, 1994 or 1995 |
Page Views: | 876 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | tobias nitchka on May 16, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
In the middle of the wall, to the right of the 5.9-, before you get to Body English (big dihedral), there's a right-angling crack that goes through a little roof about fifteen feet up.
Great climb! If you're looking for your first 5.11 trad lead, this one ain't bad. The crux is near the start of the climb, so you can place your pro then come down for a rest. Be careful not to clog up the crack with gear that limits handholds later. There's a decent first placement on the left, out of the main crack system. Don't read further if you want to figure out the crux yourself....
A unique undercling, left jam, together with a right jam up higher in the crack just over the roof is the combination that can help you power up to the next hold for the left (a bit of a stretch). Then get your right foot up, lay back a bit to your left, and place some more gear. There's a second roof up higher that's a bit tricky as well, and the rock is a bit rotten in places, so watch your step.
Rappel from the anchor under the big roof. There's a modified route--supposedly 5.13--that continues past the anchor. Look up at the big-ass glued on hold.... Doesn't look like much of a natural line even after that thing, but then again, I don't climb 5.13....
Great climb! If you're looking for your first 5.11 trad lead, this one ain't bad. The crux is near the start of the climb, so you can place your pro then come down for a rest. Be careful not to clog up the crack with gear that limits handholds later. There's a decent first placement on the left, out of the main crack system. Don't read further if you want to figure out the crux yourself....
A unique undercling, left jam, together with a right jam up higher in the crack just over the roof is the combination that can help you power up to the next hold for the left (a bit of a stretch). Then get your right foot up, lay back a bit to your left, and place some more gear. There's a second roof up higher that's a bit tricky as well, and the rock is a bit rotten in places, so watch your step.
Rappel from the anchor under the big roof. There's a modified route--supposedly 5.13--that continues past the anchor. Look up at the big-ass glued on hold.... Doesn't look like much of a natural line even after that thing, but then again, I don't climb 5.13....
Photos
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