Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Alvino Pon and Mark Pell, 1994 or 1995
Page Views: 876 total · 3/month
Shared By: tobias nitchka on May 16, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

In the middle of the wall, to the right of the 5.9-, before you get to Body English (big dihedral), there's a right-angling crack that goes through a little roof about fifteen feet up.

Great climb! If you're looking for your first 5.11 trad lead, this one ain't bad. The crux is near the start of the climb, so you can place your pro then come down for a rest. Be careful not to clog up the crack with gear that limits handholds later. There's a decent first placement on the left, out of the main crack system. Don't read further if you want to figure out the crux yourself....

A unique undercling, left jam, together with a right jam up higher in the crack just over the roof is the combination that can help you power up to the next hold for the left (a bit of a stretch). Then get your right foot up, lay back a bit to your left, and place some more gear. There's a second roof up higher that's a bit tricky as well, and the rock is a bit rotten in places, so watch your step.

Rappel from the anchor under the big roof. There's a modified route--supposedly 5.13--that continues past the anchor. Look up at the big-ass glued on hold.... Doesn't look like much of a natural line even after that thing, but then again, I don't climb 5.13....

Protection Suggest change

Full rack. Include a few medium hexes....

Photos

- No Photos -
loading