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Large Crack (Mabe's version)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Rebel Wall
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Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Happy Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Learner's Permit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Mama Says Knock You Out (Epidote?) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Southpaw S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wayside T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Winter Kill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mark Pell and Alvino Pon, early 1990s? possibly done by others earlier |
| Page Views: | 914 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Eggleston on Oct 22, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This is a fun climb, and it is to the right of the Large Crack which is described on this site.
The crux is exiting the chimney once you are inside it, or moving to the left once you are out of the chimney. There is a #4 Camalot sized crack above the chimney. This is a good moderate climb for this cliff.
The crux is exiting the chimney once you are inside it, or moving to the left once you are out of the chimney. There is a #4 Camalot sized crack above the chimney. This is a good moderate climb for this cliff.
Location
This is in the middle of the wall to the left of Mama Said Knock You Out. It starts in a crack system below a chimney capped by a small roof. You can walk off to the left or go to the Body English anchor to descend.
Protection
Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. There is one fixed pin. There are no anchors on top unless you go to the Body English anchor.
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