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Routes in Rebel Wall
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Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Happy Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Learner's Permit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Mama Says Knock You Out (Epidote?) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Southpaw S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wayside T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Winter Kill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Alvino Pon and Mark Pell, 1994 |
| Page Views: | 1,174 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This is a decent pitch with a bit of spice that climbs harder than it looks.
It has a couple cruxes, one near the ground and one high up (if you go to the Only the Strong anchors). Be prepared for a stiff start that actually may favor shorter folks. The middle section includes some more moderate but interesting terrain. Go right at the 3rd bolt. The 5.11 crux comes just before the 4th bolt. Stay right. If necessary, you can A1 the 1st & 4th bolts.
Per Mark Pell: the bolts were hand drilled from aid and free stances. Bolt two replaces a pin that disappeared from the horizontal crack in the shallow corner low on the route. The original line went up and left from bolt 3 to the obvious flake (clean pro there, long runner). Pass the flake on the right on moderate face (slightly run out?) and go up a shallow groove with more clean pro available from a small wire (HB offset or RP nut) and small Tricam. Above there, it eases and you start traversing right to the standing belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor in the roof block above, as for Only The Strong, etc. Done this way, Make It So is 9+/10- low on the route but a bit serious above bolt 3. The alternative is to move up and right from bolt 3 on thin but positive face to what has been called bolt 4 but is actually the crux bolt on Only The Strong, which joins from the right via the well-protected flake crack. Done this way you get a better line and another crux, probably 11-. Finish straight up to the bolt anchor at the ledge.
It has a couple cruxes, one near the ground and one high up (if you go to the Only the Strong anchors). Be prepared for a stiff start that actually may favor shorter folks. The middle section includes some more moderate but interesting terrain. Go right at the 3rd bolt. The 5.11 crux comes just before the 4th bolt. Stay right. If necessary, you can A1 the 1st & 4th bolts.
Per Mark Pell: the bolts were hand drilled from aid and free stances. Bolt two replaces a pin that disappeared from the horizontal crack in the shallow corner low on the route. The original line went up and left from bolt 3 to the obvious flake (clean pro there, long runner). Pass the flake on the right on moderate face (slightly run out?) and go up a shallow groove with more clean pro available from a small wire (HB offset or RP nut) and small Tricam. Above there, it eases and you start traversing right to the standing belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor in the roof block above, as for Only The Strong, etc. Done this way, Make It So is 9+/10- low on the route but a bit serious above bolt 3. The alternative is to move up and right from bolt 3 on thin but positive face to what has been called bolt 4 but is actually the crux bolt on Only The Strong, which joins from the right via the well-protected flake crack. Done this way you get a better line and another crux, probably 11-. Finish straight up to the bolt anchor at the ledge.
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