New route on the hairpin with shiny unpainted hangers?

Eric - Maybe the engineering types should chime in here, but the weight-bearing shaft on 3/8" sleeve bolts is only 5/16, which in my mind is just not sufficient for lead-climbing protection that should last 20, 50 years. Around here we use 3/8" SS sleeve for economical new-routing, 1/2" SS Powers sleeves (sometimes non-stainless, but that's phasing out) for more grip in softer limestone, and either 1/2" SS wedge or Wave Bolt SS glue-ins for top-end longevity.

1Eric Rhicard wrote:Hey Eric, the replacement had begun. I have 40 ASCA bolts sitting in my shed right now. I am doing it. 5 piece stainless that should last 50 years and be removable. Until we come up with a better alternative this is what I will do.

Those ASCA 1/2" sleeve bolts are awesome. It is fantastic how that organization has provided so much top notch hardware for replacement.

In the arid climate here those bolts will last a very long time. And as Eric mentioned, they will be replaceable down the road.