Mountain Project Logo

PAS idea

Original Post
Robert Scrivner · · Colorado Springs · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 10

Anyone ever made a simple PAS out of a cheap runner like this? Want to get some thoughts from the wise before I use this idea.

--- Invalid image id: 108765661 ---

Jeff Thilking · · Lynchburg, VA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

No problem.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

Yes, that has been done before, no you did not have an original idea.
No you wont die if you use it, or you may die if you forget to use it.
Try it for a while and see if you like that set up.
some people really like a PAS and some rather use the rope it is really up to you.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

We're long overdue for another PAS thread. Lo and behold, here it is!

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Not a fan of that girth hitch to the harness... or in general knotting slings (to which entire flaming threads can be found). I would be fine with all of it, except I would recommend you get a locker between the harness and sling. After Mike Skinners death, I updated my safety standards in this area. Long term wear issues from nylon to nylon abrasion are fairly evident.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Craig Childre wrote:Not a fan of that girth hitch to the harness... or in general knotting slings (to which entire flaming threads can be found). I would be fine with all of it, except I would recommend you get a locker between the harness and sling. After Mike Skinners death, I updated my safety standards in this area. Long term wear issues from nylon to nylon abrasion are fairly evident.
I knew Todd Skinner died, but Mike died too? :)
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Link to mostly-irrelevant but alarming DMM video in..3...2...

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Girth Hitch to right where you have it is fine.... just give it a look see every now and then.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

I don't like using this type of setup because its clunky to use and is not redundant. Where do you put the thing were you are climbing? for me it always gets wrapped around my big cams or gets caught on something.

and because everyone loves to watch a good ol' drop test...

Gunkiemike wrote:Link to mostly-irrelevant but alarming DMM video in..3...2...
popcorn and pull tests
DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196
FrankPS wrote: I knew Todd Skinner died, but Mike died too? :)
Racing cars is dangerous, but in the end, it wasn't what got him...
Rwwon ru · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 35

Wasn't the deal with Todd Skinner's setup was he never removed his girth hitched PAS, meaning it choked around the same spot on the belay loop, which caused it to wear unevenly? I'd think removing your girth hitch at the end of each day and allowing the belay loop to rotate more would help in that area.

Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

I though it was Todd skinners belay loop that was faded and busted while he was on rappel...

Regarding that PAS...make sure to sling it down under your chode and clip to your chalk bag.

Mitch Musci · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 665
Maurice Chaunders wrote:make sure to sling it down under your chode
If I search hard enough I still find reasons to read the MP forums, and especially PAS threads...thanks for the laugh!
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654
matt c. wrote:I don't like using this type of setup because its clunky to use and is not redundant. Where do you put the things /
You twist it up and rack it on your harness for use as an anchor or runner while climbing. Use as shown or like this vimeo.com/54302232 when raping.
Clip in with the rope and a Clove at the anchors.
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
cdec wrote: You twist it up and rack it on your harness for use as an anchor or runner while climbing Clip in with the rope and a Clove at the anchors.
That seems a good set up; going to give it a try. There is one thing that I don't like about it though. Even with the cute set up, he still clips into only one bolt between rappels. That seems silly, especially since he has been messing around with the half sling to make it safer.

I am open to give it a try but my old stand by is just two shoulder length slings girth hitched to my belay loop. That seems simpler and safer; its actually redundant, two points of contact and no knots to untie.
Skullybones · · Desert SW · Joined May 2013 · Points: 46
matt c. wrote: That seems a good set up; going to give it a try. There is one thing that I don't like about it though. Even with the cute set up, he still clips into only one bolt between rappels. That seems silly, especially since he has been messing around with the half sling to make it safer. I am open to give it a try but my old stand by is just two shoulder length slings girth hitched to my belay loop. That seems simpler and safer; its actually redundant, two points of contact and no knots to untie.
Redundant minus the one belay loop they're attached to.
Kerr Adams · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 155
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872
Gunkiemike wrote:Link to mostly-irrelevant but alarming DMM video in..3...2...
wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
Skullybones wrote: Redundant minus the one belay loop they're attached to.
Don't understand your comment. This is exactly what I do. The sling is girth hitched through the harness tie in points. The "leash" carabiner is clipped to the belay loop.

Do you not trust the tie in points? Is that not where you tie in your rope and take leader falls?

Not everything has to be "redundant".
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
Skullybones wrote: Redundant minus the one belay loop they're attached to.
While not letter of the law redundant (i.e. two independent systems) I (and many others) consider a Belay loop "nearly redundant" They ARE NOT a single loop of webbing with stitching. They are at LEAST two loops, and in most cases 3 or even 4 loops with continuous stitching around the entire loop in addition to the bar tacking. For it to FAIL you'd have to have multiple points of failure. The ONE point of weakness of course it that something like a sharp edge can act on multiple layers at once since they are not separate. I'd be more worried about my single piece of belt webbing or a single biner vs the belay loop.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

This thread is a Alex Lowe quote attributed to Jeff and an admonition to wear a helmet away from being complete.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "PAS idea"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.