The La Sportiva Oxygym intrigues me, it's pretty cheap (especially for La Sportiva) and looks like a good all arounder, but I can't find any real reviews online. I was wondering if anyone has a pair or has tried them out and is willing to give insight.
From my point of view: I love La Sportiva, I have 2 pair of Miuras and one of Solutions. Miuras are by far the best pair of climbing shoes I've ever owned, but at $170 they run steep. Obviously the Oxygyms (or Hydrogyms or Nitrogyms) are not a supposed to be a direct substitute, but then maybe they are?
I'm a new climber, so take that into account on my review. I've been climbing for 7 months and climbing 5.10b/c. I started with a pair of Nagos and was looking into getting a more aggressive shoe so that I'd have a second pair when it came time to resole them. I tried the Solutions, but quickly realized at my level they were unnecessary and uncomfortable. My wife has taken to putting my climbing shoes outside, because the stink was so bad. The Oxygyms, being washable, seemed a good fit for that plus they were a bit more aggressive than the Nagos, but not as much as the Solutions. The colors are horrible. I feel like I have clown shoes on, but other than that after three days climbing I'm stoked on 'em. They smear and edge well, the slightly down-turned toe gives me better power than my Nagos, the closure system works great for a snug fit. They aren't as comfortable as my Nagos, so I take them off more... BFD. I sized them a bit smaller than the Nagos or Solutions I tried on. From a 44 to a 43.5, as there was a bit too much room around my smaller toes. I haven't tried them outside yet, but I don't see why they wouldn't work just fine. I think when they say "designed for gym use" they mean they're trying to market them to gyms as rental shoes, because of their washability.
Oh yeah... apparently girls really like brightly colored shoes. They keep coming up and talking to me about them...
I'm not looking for a switch from Miuras, but rather an alternate for throwing tons of miles on. I spend a fair amount of my climbing time (gym or outside) on easy terrain training movement and endurance. It's nice to have a cheap shoe to throw on to take the abuse without throwing comfort to the wind. I'd save my miuras for projects and multi pitch and solutions for steep, hard and/or real boulders.
the 5.10 mocasyms act great as indoor shoes (as well as outdoors). they're cheap(ish), they're leather so they don't stink, the soft design can help build foot strength for when you need it outside, They are also the most comfortable shoes on the market. The only thing is you HAVE TO account for stretch or they end up very sloppy (this can be fixed by going 1 size down) and they don't edge very well so those little disk foot chips they sometime use in the gym you'll have to find a way around. These thing also eat up slab outdoors and crack (assuming sized correctly)
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