American Fork - Conditions

Hi all.

Headed to Park City area next week (3/24 to 3/30) for some skiing. I want to get some sport climbing in and have been eyeing The Hard Rock/Escape Buttress at American Fork.

Are conditions climbable there at present? I ordered the guidebook and it seems like they should be but I wanted to check.

I have 3 friends with me who are either new or 5.10b/c climbers so I figured those areas would be reasonable for them.

I'm pretty comfortable onsighting 5.12a/b so I thought maybe I'd give Teenova a go if conditions are good.

Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kevin

I have not been but, i'm guessing escape buttress will be ok. I have a friend who got on Naked Nebula (really good 12a) a week or so ago and said it was dry or mostly dry. Teenova and that sector will most likely be wet, it seeps for a while.
Kevin

Thanks Kevin. Much appreciated.

-Kevin

All of the 10s at Hard Rock and Escape are greasy as hell and mostly unenjoyable. If the weather is good, I suggest checking out Serenity Wall. It's new, it's in the shade, and you'll definitely need helmets and jackets, but it's not greasy and I think it's a lot more fun.

Austin,

Are the well traveled routes just slick/polished?

For two of the three people I will be with this will be there first time outside. They don't have helmets and I doubt they would have the presence of mind to shout rock if they pulled/kicked something off.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Kevin

AF is probably not the best place to take a bunch of first-timers...crags in Big would probably be better.

But as far as easy climbing in AF goes, I personally really like the 10's at Escape and they are pretty easy. Not overly greasy. Also in direct sunlight all day so it'll be warm.

And yeah the 12's at hard rock will probably be cold and wet, but Naked Nebula should be rad.

Kevin,
I agree with Tyler, the 10's at Escape are fun, especially the 4 routes on the left (10b,10d,10d,10a). Slightly overhanging jug hauls in the sun.
Kevin

Hi Kevin, I was in AF last weekend, the south facing walls all seemed good to go. There were quite a few people at Escape and Hard Rock so it could get a bit crowded. As Austin mentioned, the Serenity wall has a ton of <5.10 routes but there was still quite a bit of snow on the ground on the north facing walls. If you do plan to visit some north facing walls bring a warm jacket and possibly boots. Have fun!

Thanks all.

We will be climbing mid week so I'm hoping crowds are less of an issue.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.

Kevin

We ended up climbing at American Fork last Friday. Pretty good weather with a mix of warm sun and chilling clouds. The southern exposure was definitely necessary.

We hit up the Hard Rock area climbing Stoic Calculus, Rockapella, Platinum Blonde, Vaporous Apparition, Gas Boost, Punch the Clock and Juggernaut.

Really enjoyed the climbing and the beauty of the canyon despite being drugged out on sudafed and other cold meds.

Juggernaut was really fun. Really enjoyed the crux moves. Hard onsight for the grade but that could just be my sickness.

Good area for first time outdoor climbing. Easy approach, clean routes. Good times.

Looked at Escape Buttress. Would have loved to fire those off, but alas no time.

Similarly the 12's to the left of Juggernaut looked good (and dry).

Thanks all.

-Kevin