70M Rope needed on Mt. Lemmon, BEWARE!!!

In the last few years Jimbo and I have been setting up a lot of routes that require a 70M rope. If you are getting on new routes that are not in the old guidebook tie a knot in the end of your rope if it is not a 70M.

Do you think we should not use a 70 even if it makes a longer (and in our minds) a better route?

Sometimes they are extended so that the rope will rub less over an edge that is hard on the rope and makes it harder to pull.

I've aleadry thrown away my 50 m ropes, now I have to toss my 60's?

Cant you guys use standard length ropes on FA's?

Seems like 70m is becoming the norm; not sure how popular 80m ropes will get, but damn if this trend continues pretty soon your single 100m will replace your double 50's...

70's will be the ceiling IMO. Longer cord will simply weigh too much for vertical and above, and create too much rope drag on off vert and slabs. The newer slim lines can offset these drawbacks, which is why I think the 70 has become the new weapon of choice. I utilize my 70's extra length mostly rapping down and not for leading long pitches.

Never owned a 70 and don't really want to get one, but I'm ok with it as long as you publish a new guidebook asap so that we all know which routes require one.

brian benedon wrote:I've aleadry thrown away my 50 m ropes, now I have to toss my 60's? Cant you guys use standard length ropes on FA's?

Whiner. Longer pitches are better unless the extra 5M are garbage.

70M rope length IS standard. If you aren't already assuming that 35M pitches are standard, you are ten years behind.

Eric, nice public service not only putting up new routes but noting that many will require a 70m for safety.

I can think of many areas where 70m have been used for years; you can almost time-stamp the FA by noting the length of the pitch 50m, 55m, 60m....... Fast forward to contemporary standards at Owens River Gorge, Indian Creek, Europe and those not sporting an 80m may find themselves SOL on some fine lines.

I appreciated the pro-active response on "why" you are choosing to go long. Perhaps the antagonists are forgetting the seen all too often posts of "that would be a 4 star route if it were longer" or "why did the FA put the anchor in the middle of the wall? ", etc etc.

Being mindful of not only the bolt placements but the anchor placements is a true service as the FA party. Whether anchors are extended for aesthetics, for a better pull/wear on the cord or on the contrary shorter due to quality, slabbing out at a lower grade, etc. The craft of identifying the line, placing it with care for climbing, safety and esthetics is something that should be commended.

~Susan

I have a 70m and have put up a couple of lines this season that only a 70m will get you to the ground. To allow folks w/o a 70m we've put and additional set of anchors to lower off of. I know this is what I've encounter in other states. Seems to work decently. I say go long!

Look, 55 years old is the new 40 and 70M is the new standard. Wear out your 60M then get a 70M. Also, tie a knot in the end no matter what. Just heard about another person who got lowered off the end of a rope. Or, do like Julie Bruegger and tie in as if it was a multi pitch.

Thanks Susan.

Phil Lauffen wrote:Longer pitches are better unless the extra 5M are garbage.

Yes!

Thanks Eric and well said Susan.
Joe

susan peplow wrote:Lots of good stuff

I could not have said it better if I tried, so I won't. I agree with what Susan said 100%. Thanks Eric. 70M is fine by me!

I love long pitches. I have absolutely no issue with longer pitches. As a matter of fact my three proudest sends all required 70 meter ropes. Years ago 50 was the standard and old guide books would note would "60m rope required". Keep it up, Eric, make me work that endurance!

At Poke-O in the Adirondacks the guidebook simply says "double ropes needed for rappel." That phrase is a sure sign of a proud send: sustained climbing and lots of small gear.

Thanks for the PSA, and all the hard work. I'm looking foreword to the new guide book.
A big thanks to Jimbo too.
-Mackley
Afterthought: Always use "stopper knots!" If you don't want to commit to a 70m, trail a second 60 and rap off.

brian benedon wrote:I've aleadry thrown away my 50 m ropes, now I have to toss my 60's? Cant you guys use standard length ropes on FA's?

I'm really hoping this is sarcasm, but suspect not. 50m ropes were the norm when I started climbing, which really wasn't that long ago in the Grand Scheme. When people started technical climbing in the US, pitches were more like 20 - 30 meters.

C Vernon wrote:I'm ok with it as long as you publish a new guidebook asap so that we all know which routes require one.

If you're relying on a stated pitch length in a guidebook to tell you how long of a rope you need, "you're doing it wrong.''

From what I've seen you post on this site, I'm sure you don't need a guidebook to tell you how to be safe if you aren't a 100% sure how long your pitch is.

We all thrive on sarcasm here in the SW.

1Eric Rhicard wrote:We all thrive on sarcasm here in the SW.

But you guys have so much rock there and primo temps this time of year. I could understand trolls in the summer, but not so much right now. :-)

Marc H wrote: But you guys have so much rock there and primo temps this time of year. I could understand trolls in the summer, but not so much right now. :-)

Jimbo is recovering from Surgery and needs some entertainment. And don't ask if he will be okay. He has never been okay.

Sorry, forgot to include a smiley face after my post.

There were some new(er) routes put in clear creek canyon some years ago that were 35 m long, and the developer (Thor I think) hung a dog tag from pet co on the first bolts that said so to warn climbers. I believe this was done prior to the new book coming out, and it probably had saved tons of broken bones before the information became available.