Cool routes at the NRG

Darren in Vegas wrote: Fingercrack in White Corner is at South Nuttall, not the Meadow.

Thanks everyone, I can't wait too look these all up when the guidebooks arrive.

I'll probably climb a lot of sport climbs too, so I don't mind those recommendation.

camhead wrote:Alexanderblum, the crack right next to Toxic Hueco is Trojans, which got mentioned in this thread already. Awesome route! Anyway, yeah, 4/5 of the climbs in this thread are sport climbs, and most are just the standard fare that you could get by looking in the back of the guidebook. Thanks mountainporject! Here are some personal favorites, all of which are trad, most of which are steep, and some of which even have roofs! *** Jug Rash, 12b, Fern Buttress-- this is a beautiful dynamic jughaul that would be right at home at the RRG, except it's protected with gear. It has a blind placement, but is super easy to inspect while lowering from the sport route to its right. Luv Nothing, 12c, South Nuttal-- my personal favorite crack at the NRG. Steep, right-leaning thin hands and ringlocks. Nearby "Fingercrack in White Corner" (12a) is good, too. Black Crack, 12c, First Buttress of the Meadow-- steep face to a steeper hands and finger splitter. Bring lots of yellow tcu's and slings, this thing is epic! Big Top, 12a, Lower Meadow-- Entry-level 12a crack, and there is even an extension to it over a roof! Crack Head, 11d, Keeney's-- if you want steep, roofy underclings, this is it. Check out "Earn Your Dinner" just to the left, too. Sandbagged 10+ crack to roof. I'll Buy That For a Dollar, 12a, Lower Meadow-- not been on it, but I've heard it's hard the whole, way, stemming dihedral to a roof. Recondite, 11b, Endless-- elegant face trad. Will to Power, 11c, Beauty Mtn-- dihedral to runout (but safe? I think? Don't fall) face sequence over a roof. Amazing position and movement. Steve Martin's Face (11c mixed) just around the corner is essential if you're in that area, too. *** Other routes already mentioned, like Agent Orange, Marionette, Welcome to Beauty, and Leave it to Jesus, are also must-do lines. Give me a shout if you need more beta, I might even be able to come out to the crag with you.

in no particular order;

Agent Orange
Let's get physical
Rockin' Robin
The Zealot
Butterbeans

and if'n yer feeling spunky get after the Young Whipper-snappers Route!

Several more deserve mention but I think there's enough in this thread to keep ya busy.

Have Fun!

I would really love to climb those offwidthy routes, except they won't let me bring my big gear on the plane. Darn.

When will you be here? If it's before the end of the month you should really take some time and go out to Long Point one day. Camhead and I are there at least once or twice a week and it's beyond beautiful. There are a ton of gear lines out there, however almost none of them have juggy roof pulls on them. Hit me or camhead up when you are in town.

We'll be there at the end of September. I'm planning ahead. :-)

I really like techy lower angle trad climbs too, but I climb a lot of granite slabby stuff, so it would be fun to get on some steep stuff there.

HHMMMM-I've aided and worked on the big roof at the bridge butt. I know of several others that have tried as well and most stronger than me. Did not know that it went free. Hard to believe it goes at the grade mentioned.

Definitely not the only 'true' roof crack at the NRG.

Check Stuck in Another Dimension at Junkyard for not really and off-width roofy crack climbin fun 5.11

Rick Mix wrote:HHMMMM-I've aided and worked on the big roof at the bridge butt. I know of several others that have tried as well and most stronger than me. Did not know that it went free. Hard to believe it goes at the grade mentioned. Definitely not the only 'true' roof crack at the NRG.

Just got the books, the orange wall looks amazing. Is the gear pretty good on rhymes with orange and heart of darkness? Hazmat looks super fun.

MorganH wrote:Just got the books, the orange wall looks amazing. Is the gear pretty good on rhymes with orange and heart of darkness? Hazmat looks super fun.