Cool routes at the NRG
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I'm headed to the NRG. I've used the MP route finder and found some climbs that look pretty cool, but considering how many millions of routes there are at the new it seemed like there must be a lot that haven't made it into the database. |
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satisfaction guaranteed, jesus and tequila & lactic acid bath |
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would that be "leave it to jesus" |
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MorganH wrote:would that be "leave it to jesus"Two different climbs. leave it to jesus jesus and tequila |
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Those all look good, how about trad lines? |
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look at aesthetica and thunderstruck too |
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We'll be there 9 days. |
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Tobacco Road is about as steep and roofy as I know. Narcissus, and +1 for satisfaction guaranteed- that route has it all |
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Trojans at the Meadow, Agent Orange at Bridge Buttress, Welcome to Beauty, Right Son of Thunder (mostly trad) at Beauty. Not really super steep or roofy but good. |
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There are certainly routes that haven't made it into the database, but MP is going to serve you pretty well in this case. Also, if you haven't done so already, bite the bullet, buy the guidebook. It is the most well written, informative, and handy one I have ever owned. Having it with you will definitely increase the awesomeness level of your trip. That being said, you should spend most of your time at Junkyard, Bridge, Endless, and Beauty if trad climbing is your...jam. Leave it to Jesus wins my "favorite route at the NRG award", stellar climb. |
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Yep, I've already ordered both books. Areas this large can be a bit over-whelming. Looking up peoples recommendations is a pretty good way to waste time at work. :-) |
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Definitely! I did that for the RRG all morning, totally overwhelmed by the size of that place. Speaking of size, endless wall is huge - if you go there, make a reasonable plan for what routes you'd like to do, or trekking from route to route could eat a large part of your day. Beauty and Junkyard are both much smaller areas. The meadow is a really incredible place, but I don't know much about the gear routes there. Actually, should be a really good 11+ crack right next to Toxic Hueco, a five star 11d sport route! The name escapes me... |
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Does anyone remember a magazine article from a few years ago that had a bunch of pictures of an extraordinarily attractive female climber sending hard trad lines at the new? I was thinking about trying to track it down. |
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a few of my favorites: |
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If you can do Jesus & Tequila and Fruity Pants...then you can do most 5.13s in the Meadow or Summersville. Just saying... |
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All sport, but my favorites are: |
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Dude asks for "steep roofy trad climbs in the 11-12 range if anyone has any recommendations" and gets mostly sport climbs, some of which are even outside of his requested grade range. If I were a teacher, I would be handing out F's for reading comprehension. |
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The NRG isn't the Gunks - there won't be many steep, roofy climbs on gear. That being said... |
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Alexanderblum, the crack right next to Toxic Hueco is Trojans, which got mentioned in this thread already. Awesome route!
Jug Rash, 12b, Fern Buttress-- this is a beautiful dynamic jughaul that would be right at home at the RRG, except it's protected with gear. It has a blind placement, but is super easy to inspect while lowering from the sport route to its right. Luv Nothing, 12c, South Nuttal-- my personal favorite crack at the NRG. Steep, right-leaning thin hands and ringlocks. Nearby "Fingercrack in White Corner" (12a) is good, too. Black Crack, 12c, First Buttress of the Meadow-- steep face to a steeper hands and finger splitter. Bring lots of yellow tcu's and slings, this thing is epic! Big Top, 12a, Lower Meadow-- Entry-level 12a crack, and there is even an extension to it over a roof! Crack Head, 11d, Keeney's-- if you want steep, roofy underclings, this is it. Check out "Earn Your Dinner" just to the left, too. Sandbagged 10+ crack to roof. I'll Buy That For a Dollar, 12a, Lower Meadow-- not been on it, but I've heard it's hard the whole, way, stemming dihedral to a roof. Recondite, 11b, Endless-- elegant face trad. Will to Power, 11c, Beauty Mtn-- dihedral to runout (but safe? I think? Don't fall) face sequence over a roof. Amazing position and movement. Steve Martin's Face (11c mixed) just around the corner is essential if you're in that area, too.
Other routes already mentioned, like Agent Orange, Marionette, Welcome to Beauty, and Leave it to Jesus, are also must-do lines. Give me a shout if you need more beta, I might even be able to come out to the crag with you. |
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camhead, spot on! |
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camhead wrote: First Buttress of the Meadow-- steep face to a steeper hands and finger splitter. Bring lots of yellow tcu's and slings, this thing is epic! Nearby "Fingercrack in White Corner" (12a) is good, too.Fingercrack in White Corner is at South Nuttall, not the Meadow. |