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Seth williamson
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Dec 16, 2013
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South west Missouri
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 5
This route has not changed at all. everything is the same as it has been. me on ottos route
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Buff Johnson
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Dec 16, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
you have to wonder how many mag news flashes & govt e-mails flew around about this bs.
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Merlin
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Dec 17, 2013
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Grand Junction
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 10
I doubt it got climbed yesterday but who knows. It's snowy and cold here still.
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Meme Guy
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Dec 18, 2013
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Land of Runout Slab
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 325
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Hamlet73
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Dec 18, 2013
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 230
Turns out the Douche was the original poster!
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Meme Guy
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Dec 18, 2013
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Land of Runout Slab
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 325
Best Troll Award 2013 nominee.
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Tug
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Dec 18, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 0
Meme Guy wrote:Best Troll Award 2013 nominee. Yeah, if you are a moron.
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Matthew McMillan
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Feb 11, 2014
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Orange, CA
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 45
Max Supertramp wrote:Bill, the final remaining pipe of Otto's atop the overhanging last pitch. Pipe? What's the story?
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Tim Stich
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Feb 11, 2014
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
Did not buy troll goods. No sale.
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Burner20
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Mar 16, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 0
Lot's of haters in this thread, but I just did Otto's today. OP is not a troll. 1. The top ledge pipe has been removed 2. Some holes have been filled in. It looks like an epoxy/adhesive filler mixed with a large aggregate sand. No hole have been filled in on the critical/difficult moves. Very odd which holes were chosen for filling, but generally if a route exists in the natural formation then the holes were filled. On crux moves like the 2nd pitch overhang, summit overhang, and 3rd pitch all holes remain. 3. ALL bolts that are not part of an anchor have been cut or otherwise removed. Anchor/chains remain, but none of the pitches have bolts. All the original pitons remain. The route can still be easily climbed but you must have some cams for first and second pitches for protection. There is only 1 piton on the first pitch and none on the second. This vandalism is an incredibly self aggrandizing and truly douchey act on the part of someone. I can only hope it was not the NPS. To the person who vandalized this route: I am sorry that the protection and man made features on this accessible, fun and super historic route offended your egotistical sensibilities. Of the thousands of awesome desert climbs available to you, why you chose this historic route to deface we will never know. you are a sad, sad person. So screw you.
Adios.
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Peter Blank
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Mar 17, 2014
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Grand Junction, Colorado
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 720
So are the protection pitons on the top two pitches still intact?
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Max Supertramp
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Mar 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 95
Saw some folks up there today, wondered what they would find. I can assure you that this was not an NPS action. There are no 'original pitons' - Otto did not possess them. How many intermediate protection pitons did you find on the route?
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Max Supertramp
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Mar 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 95
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Burner20
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Mar 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 0
I created this account just to post a reply to this thread, I don't normally post on this site. @Peter- yes pitons on top two pitches remain. No pictures because I did not go up there looking for evidence of the changes. I only made mental note during that climb that it was odd that holes would be filled in and bolts cut. At the time I didn't think much of it but after stumbling across OP I made my post to share my experience with the community. Pardon my use of the term "original" in describing the pitons... I don't know when the pitons were put in and I don't really care. All I know is that they (the pitons) are older than the bolts/hangers that were cut. The only cut hardware was stainless. The route can still be protected just fine with cams. So anyways, I guess this horse is beaten.
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Tom Halicki
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Mar 17, 2014
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 35
I did Otto's a week ago today for the first time this season, third time overall. I didn't notice anything different. Same as it ever was. Almost as entertaining as this thread. Same quality fixed gear
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Max Supertramp
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Mar 18, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 95
I second Tom: everything is as it should be on Otto's Route, in terms of hardware. Grog M/Burner20, either drop the bong or come accept your troll genius of the year award.
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Michael Schneiter
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Mar 18, 2014
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Glenwood Springs, CO
· Joined Apr 2002
· Points: 10,406
Correct me if I'm wrong, but as I recall the only bolts (not pitons or drilled angles) on this thing are at anchors. Maybe the second to last pitch had a modern-ish bolt but otherwise the fixed gear was pitons. I've done the route about 20 times since 2000 and as I recall, and someone is free to correct me, there are fewer fixed pins on this than there used to be and thus requires slightly more gear. As I recall, there were more pins (2 or 3 more?) to clip on the first real pitch than there are now.
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