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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 5. Camp 4 Wall
Edge of Night
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in 5. Camp 4 Wall
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Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dynamo Hum T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Fredericks, Rich Doleman, Jim Bridwell (Oct '67) |
| Page Views: | 3,130 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Mar 10, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Camp 4 Wall is known for it's wide and burly cracks, and Edge of Night epitomizes this style of climbing.
Scramble up the 3rd class gully as you would for Secret Storm, but instead of continuing up, traverse left on ledges past the old bolted anchor at the top of Sample the Dog (a short 12a face climb). At the end of this ledge you will find a clean 4" crack in a corner. This is the start of Edge of Night.
Climb the crack past a couple old bolts to a crux section which starts as an offwidth corner until the corner pinches closed to form a tight flared chimney. I found this section to be pretty secure and you can walk a bomber #5 Camalot above your head the whole way, but making upward progress can be sort of thrutchy and tiring. There was a fixed #6 Camalot in the middle of the crux. Above this is an easy chimney to a tight tunnel-through behind a chockstone. Don't place gear way deep in the back of the chimney or it could potentially drag your cams below into the crack (like that #6) Belay ontop of the chockstone.
Pitch 2 is only rated 5.9 but it's tough and the pro isn't quite as solid and easy to place as on the first pitch. Start up the awkward corner until you come to another wedged chockstone. You can maybe tunnel behind the chockstone but I passed it to the right. Lieback the edge of the flake on the outside of the chimney (it's possible to chimney up first to place some pro, then chimney back down to the chockstone). A final jam crack to a weird and difficult mantel, then some easy face climbing, leads up to the rap tree.
From the rap tree, make one double-rope rappel back to the ledge and then scramble off the way you came up.
I linked the two pitches into one long "full value" pitch, but the rope drag was pretty terrible by the top so I don't know if I'd recommend that.
Scramble up the 3rd class gully as you would for Secret Storm, but instead of continuing up, traverse left on ledges past the old bolted anchor at the top of Sample the Dog (a short 12a face climb). At the end of this ledge you will find a clean 4" crack in a corner. This is the start of Edge of Night.
Climb the crack past a couple old bolts to a crux section which starts as an offwidth corner until the corner pinches closed to form a tight flared chimney. I found this section to be pretty secure and you can walk a bomber #5 Camalot above your head the whole way, but making upward progress can be sort of thrutchy and tiring. There was a fixed #6 Camalot in the middle of the crux. Above this is an easy chimney to a tight tunnel-through behind a chockstone. Don't place gear way deep in the back of the chimney or it could potentially drag your cams below into the crack (like that #6) Belay ontop of the chockstone.
Pitch 2 is only rated 5.9 but it's tough and the pro isn't quite as solid and easy to place as on the first pitch. Start up the awkward corner until you come to another wedged chockstone. You can maybe tunnel behind the chockstone but I passed it to the right. Lieback the edge of the flake on the outside of the chimney (it's possible to chimney up first to place some pro, then chimney back down to the chockstone). A final jam crack to a weird and difficult mantel, then some easy face climbing, leads up to the rap tree.
From the rap tree, make one double-rope rappel back to the ledge and then scramble off the way you came up.
I linked the two pitches into one long "full value" pitch, but the rope drag was pretty terrible by the top so I don't know if I'd recommend that.
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