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RRG this week - weather/beta

Original Post
Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

WEATHER: Hey guys, heading to the Red Monday-Friday. It looks like it'll be warm and relatively dry. To what extent should I be concerned about runoff wetness?

BETA: So I used to climb at the Red before I really got into climbing, so I have a general idea of it, but what areas should I focus on for mid 11 sport - mid 12 sport? My list right now is:
Military Wall; Left Flank; Phantasia (Twinkie); Bob Marley Crag; Dark Side; Drive-by; Motherlode; Solar Collector and Gold Coast; Bruisebrothers (potentially Indy wall too); maybe solarium or sanctuary if we climb better than expected. For 4 days of climbing, what should be at the top of my list, and am I missing any gems here?

I have the 3rd Edition of Ray's guide - will I be OK b/t that and redriverclimbing for beta?

CAMPING: Also, I was wondering if anyone had opinions on Lago Linda's for camping. I love Miguel's but I'm a pretty light sleeper and we will probably spend a fair bit of time at PRMP and Motherlode, so the marginally shorter approach drive is appreciated.

Thanks all!!

Cory Hanes · · Asheville, NC · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

I would place military wall at the top if your list- it is phenomanal with a high star classic 11a called fuzzy undercling. Left flank is solid is well- you might like a route called too many puppies.

The runoff wetness shouldn't be bad especially with the sun making an appearance this weekend. If the rain is an issue there are plenty of walls that have roofs/that are overhung that stay dry regardless of the weather.

Good luck and enjoy!!

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270
Cory Hanes wrote:I would place military wall at the top if your list- it is phenomanal with a high star classic 11a called fuzzy undercling. Left flank is solid is well- you might like a route called too many puppies. The runoff wetness shouldn't be bad especially with the sun making an appearance this weekend. If the rain is an issue there are plenty of walls that have roofs/that are overhung that stay dry regardless of the weather. Good luck and enjoy!!
Awesome! Thanks for the confirmation. Military and Left Flank were my day 1 plan. Then after getting my bearings, if it seems doable (i.e. we can hang the moves), Motherlode and Bob Marley for another couple days. Too Many Puppies, Stunning the Hog, and Table of Colors (in my dreams) are definitely on the list.
Byron Hempel · · Tucson · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 85

Expect crowds at all of those places! Military is usually crowded, but it's a big wall, you'd be able to spread out if you wanted to climb more routes. Solar collector will be the "least" crowded in terms of climbers /route. The 3rd edition would work really well, but if you'd like a more complete list, go to redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/

You can always find a spot to climb in the rain, then the next day head to a wall that dries fast! (I.e. A very overhung place on rainy day, then chocolate factory on the day after (some routes dry within a few hours)).

Lago Linda's is good for the south; Land of Arches is good for the middle / Northern part if Miguels is a little loud.

Good luck, and don't forget a stick clip! No reason to ever get hurt sport climbing.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270
Byron Hempel wrote:Expect crowds at all of those places! Military is usually crowded, but it's a big wall, you'd be able to spread out if you wanted to climb more routes. Solar collector will be the "least" crowded in terms of climbers /route. The 3rd edition would work really well, but if you'd like a more complete list, go to redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/ You can always find a spot to climb in the rain, then the next day head to a wall that dries fast! (I.e. A very overhung place on rainy day, then chocolate factory on the day after (some routes dry within a few hours)). Lago Linda's is good for the south; Land of Arches is good for the middle / Northern part if Miguels is a little loud. Good luck, and don't forget a stick clip! No reason to ever get hurt sport climbing.
sweet. I think we'll be at Gold Coast/Solar a day and Bob Marley/Drive-by and maybe Motherlode/Chocolate with one day at Military/Left Flank so I'm not too bothered by being that far south.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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