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One Arms

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Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,560

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Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Steps I've used:
1: Use the assisted pullup machine down to 25 lbs. Found it was helpful after the one-rep max (or min, depending on how you look at it), go up 10 pounds, try to do 2 pullups, go up 10 more, try to do 3, etc.

2: Switch to using a pullup bar. Take some old cordalette, attach 25 pound weight (or less, depending on where you are strength wise), drape it over the pullup bar (so you have 25 pounds of assistance) and try the pullup. This will refine the movement you won't get on a machine.

I was able to go down to 10 pounds on this, then I stagnated. Next step:

3: ARC workouts. 30 minutes non-stop on the bouldering wall or roped climbing. Do 2 of these per day, twice a week. When I came back, I went back to step 2, and now only need 2.5 pounds of assistance.

At this point, I'm pretty sure it's a technique thing. I can pull up from 90 degrees bent to the top. I can pull up from 0 degrees (fully extended) to 45 degrees. Something magical happens between 45-90 degrees that still needs refining.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Question: Is training to do 1 arm pullups an efficient use of your training time, in order to improve as a climber? Granted, it is a pretty neat party trick, but is this really what is holding you back from your climbing goals?

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814
JCM wrote:Question: Is training to do 1 arm pullups an efficient use of your training time, in order to improve as a climber? Granted, it is a pretty neat party trick, but is this really what is holding you back from your climbing goals?
I've found it very useful actually, its changed my climbing pretty drastically. I used to rely solely on dynamic movement and it severely limited my options, now I KNOW I can lock off most moves if need be.
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

There is no training for the one arm, either you can do it or you are hopelessly weak :|

But if you insist on trying: beastskills.com/one-arm-chi…

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

one armed pull ups mean nothing if you can't follow up with a set of one armed push ups. Just letting you know.

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

I did a lot of weighted pull-ups, 4-6 reps 2-3 sets with 5-10 minute rests in between. When I plateaued around exercise 6 I would switch it up to uneven pull-ups with a long sling, 8-10 inches or so. Also you have to be on the lighter side for sure.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

If you are dead set on doing a one armed pull up, Charlie and Josh's suggestions seem pretty solid. Also, look into the "Recon Ron" pull up program. It's a long term and low intensity approach that cross fit types use to increase overall maximum reps. Which may or may not contribute to your cause, but would seem to assist with overall endurance.

I've only been doing it for a couple weeks, so can't really report any significant gain, but it hasn't intruded at all with my climbing training program and feels good as a way to start the morning.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Jon Zucco wrote:one armed pull ups mean nothing if you can't follow up with a set of one armed push ups. Just letting you know.
That's child's play, one arm handstand pushup (which I cannot do), now we are talking...

I'd say if you want to do a one arm pullup, then you should steer clear of the crossfit BS (not to mention the "kipping" pullups crossfitters do is horribly non-applicable to climbing). One arm is a test of strength, not fitness. As far as whether it helps climbing. IMO, if you don't have a glaring weakness in your climbing (finger/hand strength, technique), then it does help. And really, it doesn't detract very much from general climbing training.
NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

except all those pull-ups will destroy your shoulders in time…

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

About 10 years ago, I still did pullups. Could do about 30 in a set when training endurance, and 3 sets of 6 reps with 70lb strapped on for strength (I weighed about 140) . At that point, I could not do a one arm.

Then I didn't do more than 3 pullups at a time (for warming up before bouldering in the gym mostly) for about 5 years. But I was doing seriously heavy weighted hangs on the hangboard, up to 110lb. One day out of curiosity, I grabbed the jug on the hangboard and started to pull...holy shit! a one arm without straining too much so did another rep, and another. Tried the other arm, could do two with that one.

So much for the "isometrics only train a small range of motion" (I actually believe that, but still). More than one way to skin a cat. Being able to rotate your body while performing the motion helps alot so you can engage the different muscles at appropriate points of the motion.

I doubt I could do more than 20 in a set right now (if that), but I can still do a one arm with either arm. That said, I know people who can barely do 3 or 4 in a set and still climb 5.13, and know dudes who can do 30 in a set who max at 5.11. Lats and bis are rarely a limiter in rock climbing.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
NickinCO wrote:except all those pull-ups will destroy your shoulders in time…
If you do them with poor forms and don't work on your opposing muscles, then yes.
Will S wrote:So much for the "isometrics only train a small range of motion" (I actually believe that, but still).
If you are pretty strong to start with, you don't necessarily need to train if your style of climbing utilizes your pulling strength. When I was in high school I did a lot of pullups & was able to almost do an one arm. Then I got heavier and couldn't do one in college anymore. Not that longer after picking up climbing, not having specifically trained for pullups, and weighing the same as college, I found I can do it, much more easily than I ever could. Doesn't meaning training won't get you even stronger.
Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

Definitely work on opposing muscle groups, and stretching or yoga type exercises. Rest and proper diet for recovery is essential as well to make sure your joints are aligned and in good health. Otherwise, yeah, you're going to destroy both your elbows and shoulders eventually.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061
reboot wrote: Doesn't meaning training won't get you even stronger.
True.

I stopped doing pullups mainly because I found it really hard on my elbows. But I know a couple guys in their 50s who knock out 100-200 in a day with seemingly no ill effects.
NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155
Jon Zucco wrote:Definitely work on opposing muscle groups, and stretching or yoga type exercises. Rest and proper diet for recovery is essential as well to make sure your joints are aligned and in good health. Otherwise, yeah, you're going to destroy both your elbows and shoulders eventually.
+ one million. I used to do pull-up ladders 1-10-1 4 or 5 days a week coupled with climbing really steep routes in the gym. My right shoulder is so jacked up I look like I have a disfigurement. My right shoulder is rolled forward and sits about 2" lower than my left. Doc diagnosed it as shoulder impingement syndrome. Went through numerous cortisone shots, and finally 3 months of PT to make it feel better. If I haven't done my exercises in a while and go climb it hurts bad enough afterwards that I can't sleep on it. I basically took a year off climbing last year because of work and other hobbies and my shoulder still looks like shit.
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

It's been a couple years, but I used to be able to do 3-4 on either side.

In terms of training, all I did was mount a pullup bar in my bedroom door frame and forced myself to do 10 pullups every time I walked past it. After a couple months, my max reps had increased from around 18 to over 30, and one day just tried a one-arm out of curiosity and it worked. That was it. Tweaked the shit out of my shoulder 1 month later doing a one-arm and didn't climb for 6 months.

For what it's worth, when I was able to do one-arms, I think my hardest redpoint ever was maybe 11a or 11b. I'm significantly "weaker" now but have onsighted 11d and redpointing 5.12. Go figure.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

It's more of a parlor trick than anything, IMHO. I wouldn't hurt myself trying to do one.

Marek Sapkovski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 65
JCM wrote:Question: Is training to do 1 arm pullups an efficient use of your training time, in order to improve as a climber?
I read somewhere that Adam Ondra was pulling down on 9b by the time he was able to do a single one-arm pull-up.

PS. There are better ways of training lock-off strength out there, no?
Peter George · · Houston, TX · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 5,369

I can do one arms and im not a very good climber.
I did a lot of weighted pullups back in the day 3-5 reps for ten sets with as much weight as possible. wasn't trying to do one arms and i dont think i ever tried

I stopped doing any kind of pullups for probably a year(a lot of bouldering during this time) one day i tried it and to my surprise i could knock out two with either arm.
for awhile i would do it to show off but it aggravates my arm/ upper back and im too weak to perform them in training .

So for me it is entirely useless as it only tweaked my bicep and upper back and im pretty shitty at everything besides muscular strength(weak fingers, poor technique etc)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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