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NC CLIMBERS: Best Guidebook for Stone Mountain?

Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

Entrance crack is a crazy route for the grade sure, but, its not all that bad. I actually recommend everyone do it at least once. But given the short time there I would recommend "Block Route" to access the ledge. Its much better protected (at crux) and the flop is quite a mind boggler until you just commit and... flop.

Scott Phil · · NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 258

The Block Route or, if it is dry, Dirty Crack are both great ways to gain the tree ledge. If you plan to do the Pulpit (recommended), you will be starting just to the right of Dirty Crack and can easily scope it out. There is something to be said for doing the Entrance Crack at least once. It is probably the best known 5.4 in NC.

Dixie Crystals was/is a small, soft cover pamphlet that could easily fit in a pocket. I suspect that most copies were used until they were worn out. Some libraries used to have a copy--if they still do you could borrow it through Inter-library loan. That said, for your purposes Selected Climbs will give you plenty to do at Stone.

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325

I'm gonna write a free guide book to stone mountain one day. It will be filled with rants, but it will be the best guide book for stone.

I've also got an old copy of Dixie laying around my house somewhere. I'll try to locate it and maybe have a sisterhood of the traveling pants type deal. Maybe I'll give it to the information station at the entrance of the park for their museum because it's older than shit.

Mark Byers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 50

Use Block Route, U Slot, or Dirty Crack to access the tree ledge. Block Route is my favorite. Also the block move is a step up and not a flop. From the tree ledge do the Great Arch and/or No Alternative, and then if you're in the mood for a bit of runout fun, jump on Yardarm. Or skip the tree ledge and do the Pulpit.

Bob Ewing · · Arlington · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 145

I've got to say, the NC climbing community is awesome, you guys are super helpful and I really appreciate it. The Selected Climbs guidebook came yesterday and I spent about three hours flipping through it. Now there's a half-dozen more places in North Carolina I have to visit!

HERE'S OUR GAMEPLAN:

We're going to climb Stone on Saturday March 8 and Sunday March 9. We'll get a cheap hotel in Elkin Friday night. Me and two buddies. We'll use two ropes so the 2nd and 3rd can simul-climb. We plan to be on the rock by 9am to get on Great Arch (think it'll be open?), and then walk back down and do No Alternative (we'll walk instead of rap, especially since there's three of us). We'll take your advice on getting to the Tree Ledge. Sunday we plan to do The Pulpit. Sound good?

We're excited. Thanks!

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415

That sounds like a great first outing at Stone for sure. You got the right idea on trying to get on the Great Arch early, however there are no guarantees. I'd just get up to the tree ledge and see which climb is open of the two (No Alternative or The Great Arch), and just hop on the open climb.

I've only walked down once before. I don't know how anyone could walk down faster than rappelling down. I can rappel down sub 10-15 minutes and be ready to climb again easily. The nice thing about rappelling down is you can set a top rope up off the anchors of either Storm in a Teacup or Rainy Day Women (can't remember for sure). You can climb any of the stone in-between those an get a feel for Stone Mountain 5.9 - 5.10 slab. By the way, you can bring a light rack and mitigate the run outs on No Alternative, just look for overlaps before the bolts.

I know it's been mentioned before but Fleet Feet is an amazing climb if you have some extra time.

There is also good camping in the park with great facilities (primitive and sites). If you wanted to be super close and save a little.

You'll have a blast! Stone is rad, along with all the other climbing North Carolina has to offer!

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325

Hey bob I may be around that weekend if the weathers nice. I'll give you a shout if I end up in stone.

Mike F · · Arden, NC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 56

I would recommend rapping after the great arch as you'll be on the tree ledge faster and be ready to climb no alternative w/out re-climbing a tree-ledge approach pitch. Enjoy!

Scott Phil · · NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 258

Hey Bob,

How did it go? Which routes did you do?

Thanks,
Scott

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325

Did you end up making the trip? I saw that the park was closed last night and this morning saw they opened the gate up and only the upper parking lot was open. Next weekend looks killer though.

Bob Ewing · · Arlington · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 145

We didn't make it, unfortunately. We had the car all packed up and logistics down solid (thanks in large part to this forum) when our hotel called to ask if we were still coming. They said eight inches of snow fell and Stone was closed. (We checked the weather but missed this storm, we only saw the 60 degrees for the weekend.)

We called the local REI to chat with a climber dude on the ground and he said even though the park will open and the snow will melt, the cracks will be wet and likely the slabs. So we bailed. We'll definitely get there this season, not sure when though.

On a brighter note, my wife and I will be climbing Mount Arapiles in Australia in a few weeks, so that's exciting! Thanks again for everything, we're really excited to get to Stone soon.

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325

Which hotel were you going to stay at?

Bob Ewing · · Arlington · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 145
High Meadow Inn. They were awesome. It's right next to the park (way closer than staying in Elkin) and just $50 a night. They were fine with three people staying and were going to have a cot set up for us when we arrived. Plus you get a discount at their restaurant. And they were cool enough to call us to let us know about the storm.

I was planning to email the Stone admins to have them add this as an option to the main page, but of course I have to stay there first before I make the suggestion.

Have you stayed there? What do you think?
Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325
Bob Ewing wrote:High Meadow Inn. They were awesome. It's right next to the park (way closer than staying in Elkin) and just $50 a night. They were fine with three people staying and were going to have a cot set up for us when we arrived. Plus you get a discount at their restaurant. And they were cool enough to call us to let us know about the storm. I was planning to email the Stone admins to have them add this as an option to the main page, but of course I have to stay there first before I make the suggestion. Have you stayed there? What do you think?
I live about 2 minutes away from there. The people who run the place are really good people, family owned. I've never been in the inn, but I shared a drink with Zach Galifianakis in Nikolas. Shit you not. He has a house up near there.

But roaring gap is much closer to stone than Elkin, really easy coast down Oklahoma road and you're at the park entrance.
Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325
Bob Ewing wrote:High Meadow Inn. They were awesome. It's right next to the park (way closer than staying in Elkin) and just $50 a night. They were fine with three people staying and were going to have a cot set up for us when we arrived. Plus you get a discount at their restaurant. And they were cool enough to call us to let us know about the storm. I was planning to email the Stone admins to have them add this as an option to the main page, but of course I have to stay there first before I make the suggestion. Have you stayed there? What do you think?
Ok just found this out today, I'm told Hotel Impossible came to the high meadow inn and redid the lobby and a few rooms. I had heard that Restaurant Impossible was going to come to nikolas, and thought to myself HAHAHA no way are they coming to Roaring Gap, NC.

I'll be at Stone today pulling pebbles if anyone else is there. Saw a few groups out yesterday, including a couple with an obscene amount of gear for Stone. Parking lot was pretty empty yesterday, only one out of stater (indiana) I imagine there will be a few more people out today.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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