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Where in Colorado can we train for the fall season in Yosemite?

Original Post
Bill Wa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

Some ideas like going to Flat Irons with full haul bags and hiking up to Aprons are running through my head. It would also be very nice to practice some easy aid and high angle hawling. It may be too much to ask for Colorado, but heck why not?
Specifics of what we are looking for: 1 mile ' ish approach preferably uphill but not too scree. 7 to 10 pitches of trad we can aid in some parts, preferably with a pengie or a nice roof, bomber rock, solid gear or bolted stations. Any first hand info will be appreciated.

george wilkey · · travelers rest sc · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 235

you may think about hallet peak in rmnp as well as the diamond on long's but both have long approaches. also the indian peaks have some good long routes.

if you want to start earlier in the season you may want to try unaweep canyon near grand junction. you will prob only get 3-4 pitches on the longest routes but it will be warmer there and its granite.

boulder canyon may be your best bet. you can get some long routes there and the approaches are very short, also granite.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

My first thought would be turkey rocks due to the nature of the rock / climbing (granite cracks mostly, with some wide). The climbs aren't quite that long but you can always just try doing a few routes in a day vs. one long 7 pitch route.

The rock quality in Indian Peaks is a bit dicey from what I've seen. RMNP has good climbs but that's bordering more on alpine than big wall type stuff (for the most part).

If it were me, I'd be looking at granite trad areas: turkey rocks / s. platte, lumpy, and boulder canyon if you're in that area. Now that I think of it lumpy has a lot of approaches in your ballpark (~1 mile) as well.

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Lumpy is best bet for the flaring like cracks. You'll get strong with the modest approach.

I would:

2-3 weekends in the creek (spring time)
this will build all size jamming aspects and super shoulders.

Eldo/Bocan/Splatee while the alpine dries out

Lumpy over summer

2 months before your fall season really focus on volume with heavy packs going up hill. Go hike up green with a pack full of water (or similar peak) and then go climb 10 pitches in eldo.

Spending a couple weekends in the desert always gets me back in shape fast. Yosemite you'll find a lot of mixed climbing - splitter crack to a polished face to OW pod.

Look at your tick list you want and emulate that. So say EB El cap - Hike up Cinetas with packs - then castle rock and do the 9 and 10b chimney flares twice in a row on lead. Drop down canyon and get on about 8 pitches of 5.8-5.10

Doesnt necessary equal success, but you should be pretty good

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

So you're looking for all the great stuff that's somewhat unique to Yosemite, but not in Yosemite. Got it.

I'll echo what's been said: go to Lumpy, go to the Splatte, go climb some routes on the Diamond, maybe go to the Black, although, to be fair, Yosemite is training for the Black...

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481
Brian Scoggins wrote: Yosemite is training for the Black...
Yep
Bill Wa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

Tank you for the ideas. Lumpy is where it is! How did it skip my mind? We have never been to Unaweep yet so it's definitely time to check it out on the way to Utah! Super psyched!

Bill Wa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

If we stayed into the summer Black is on the list too! Then again ...may get TOO strong for Yosemite.;)

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Try the Diamond! Great hike in, climbing hard at altitude,
and you can work on some aid too!

Bill Wa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

The Diamond is definitely on the list. We will Hike in and bivy ovwrnight. Bringing all the aid gear up 6 miles is gonna be a bit#ch. Totally on the list though!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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