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mountainproject.com/v/the-g…

all the bolts that were added for the free variation of glass menagerie

Parker you beat me to it!

Two first bolts on Centerfold at wall of the 90's at CCC

Say what you want about National Socialism, Dude - at least it's an ethos. BTW, Yaak goes on a #2 and a blue offset. 10c, tops. Why pick one, bro? There's plenty o' choppin' to be had on the most popular summertime RR adventure - that someone decided to turn into a convenient little sport rappellin' day. At least they managed to clean up all the (formerly) natural anchors along the way - Leave No Trees (slung). FML.

All Killer No Filler wrote:Have you guys climbed GM and seen them? Are they really that bad? Have a couple buddies who've freed and aided the thing and never heard complaints. Not that it'd surprise me, that route sounds like it was proud back when...

Yep, climbed GM and have seen the 'new' bolts. Yep, they're bad. And finally Yep, GM was very proud when it was put up.

any & all bolts put in on rappel
starting with Beer Can Direct at Lovers Leap

Definitely the bolt at the start of Double Cross. Just man up and do the runout to the crack! It's a route worth braving death for.

Alexander Nees wrote:Definitely the bolt at the start of Double Cross. Just man up and do the runout to the crack! It's a route worth braving death for.

Not sure if sarcasm but I was there ~3 weeks ago. Someone beat you to it.

For all the hubbub on here I expected the "runout" to be much more heinous.

You want a sketchy start try The Flue (also in HVC, only a grade harder than DC). Or really any of the other hundreds of JTree routes that have a boulder problem start.

I'd chop the bolt at the start of the second pitch of north chimney on castleton. It's old and manky and probably wouldn't hold a fall, but it makes some people think they can get away without a #5/#6. Accident waiting to happen.

Then again climbing is dangerous so meh. It will self-chop eventually.

mountainproject.com/v/been-…

All of the ones on this route, I hear the first ascentionist is a bolt hater, so I will help solve his inner conflict over whether to bolt or to chop!

JK :)

All the bolts on Centerfold
and every other bolt on Wet Dream. The bolt on the approach ramp is just ridiculous and I've seen multiple people z-clip while on the route.

The bolt that really pissed me off was the lone bolt @ the crux on Roadrunner

It's an escape bolt for people that don't know how to manage their gear under the roof. All the talk about how it helps keep the rope out of the crack (while true) is an excuse for people that don't know how to use rope orientation and runners to achieve the same thing.

I talked to Jim Erickson who I believe was the true FA 1969 or 70(which is misstated on the route page) and he had no recollection of the bolt. You wouldn't have to put a gun to my head to give this one the old chop chop, just a day off werk.

Alexander Nees wrote:Definitely the bolt at the start of Double Cross. Just man up and do the runout to the crack! It's a route worth braving death for.

Not to mention that at <100 yards from the car, just bring a freaking crash pad.

Pink Flamingo's (Indian Creek) anchors. Those things need to be gone.

None. Bolt the future. Without them I would rather be dead.
Ps I only rap bolt

I would get rid of all the bolts Ken Nichols placed… ;)
Especially the ones located in Connecticut !

All but one bolt on the first five/six pitches of sour mash, black velvet canyon.

Why were these even replaced? They weren't on the FA...

#2: All bolted cracks in Owens, especially in the upper gorge. It's not even an approach!

Obed. GM could lose a couple too... You skip them they're so close together.

SexPanther aka Kiedis wrote:... I'm going to ante in with the retrobolts on Adventure Punks. The FA team hates them, they are right beside bomber gear, they're purely there for convenience...

Haha I thought this once I saw the title of the thread. I admittedly used the first bolt- to clip my helmet to so I could turn my head around in the wide.