Mt Whitney, East Face Beta

If I read the regs correctly:
fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsin…

There is no quota before May1st. Go before then and get a self service permit. Problem solved.

I guess we will see if the snow melts off by then.

I would agree that the E Ledges could easily be missed when descending in the dark (also ascending, but descending they are REALLY hard to see from above -- even in the daylight!).

Does anyone know if 'Climbing Mt Whitney' by Peter Croft has an accurante East Face description?

amazon.com/Climbing-Mt-Whit…

Based on the "tend to sew things up" comment, I would think even 4am is a bit of a late start. I'd consider starting to hike at 1 or 2am and then getting to enjoy the beautiful hike out the NF drainage in the daylight. Better to start in the dark then finish in the dark.

Also, if you end up on top late, you can always hike the trail out, but just know that it is way longer than the MR/North Fork.

As for Owen Spalding on GT vs. East Face of Whitney, Whitney has a much shorter (although still not "short") approach, but much longer technical climbing (about 15 pitches if you pitch everything out).

Good luck and have fun!

Based on your OS time of 20 hours (noting party of 3), limited trad/alpine experience, and the fact it's non-trivial to retreat, I would strongly recommend a practice alpine route of at least 6-7 pitches with your planned partner before trying to day trip the E Face.

Here's why:

APPROACH
OS: 6.5 miles with 5,000' of gain
EF: 5 miles with 5,200' of gain

PITCHES
OS: 3
EF: 13, granted ~half are class 3-4

DESCENT TO BASE
OS: 120' (2 raps)
EF: ~2000' descent down the Mountaineer's route, not technically difficult but often time-consuming due to the loose rock

The High Sierra SuperTopo would give you more route options in your leading range, and the topos are more detailed than what I've seen in Peter's other books at least. Lastly, the trail is pretty well defined up to the E-ledges, so I don't think you'll have too much problem in the dark.

Keithb00ne wrote:Does anyone know if 'Climbing Mt Whitney' by Peter Croft has an accurante East Face description? amazon.com/Climbing-Mt-Whit…

fossana wrote:Based on your OS time of 20 hours (noting party of 3), limited trad/alpine experience, and the fact it's non-trivial to retreat, I would strongly recommend a practice alpine route of at least 6-7 pitches with your planned partner before trying to day trip the E Face. Here's why: APPROACH OS: 6.5 miles with 5,000' of gain EF: 5 miles with 5,200' of gain PITCHES OS: 3 EF: 13, granted ~half are class 3-4 DESCENT TO BASE OS: 120' (2 raps) EF: ~2000' descent down the Mountaineer's route, not technically difficult but often time-consuming due to the loose rock The High Sierra SuperTopo would give you more route options in your leading range, and the topos are more detailed than what I've seen in Peter's other books at least. Lastly, the trail is pretty well defined up to the E-ledges, so I don't think you'll have too much problem in the dark.

I'd agree with the 'try another peak' approach as well. Lots of great peaks in the Sierra to try, all of which could be done in a day much more easily (and are good fun to boot):

W. or N. Ridge of Mt. Conness, 5.6
NE Arete of Bear Creek Spire, 5.5
Cathedral Peak, 5.6
N. Ridge of Lone Pine Peak, 5.6 (long day though)
Matthes Crest, 5.7

Bear creek is on my very near list. We tried it last year, but my very sea level friend, got uncontrollably sick. Needless to say, he's not coming this year.