Best way to anchor hanging belayer for single pitch sport route?

Hey all,

I am going to be heading to Kentucky this upcoming weekend and my friends and I are going to be climbing Banshee and Abiyoyo (if you're familiar). Anyways, these two routes both start at the same spot, which is about 20 feet off the deck on a ledge that has two permanent anchors for the belayer. I was assuming just using a Metolius PAS would be enough, but upon reading online it sounds like that might not be the best way? I've done a fair amount of leading outside as well as in the gym, but never any multipitch so setting up a hanging belay is pretty foreign to me, and I would appreciate any advice!

I should add that this route is well bolted and nobody should be taking massive whippers

Belayer ties into other end of rope and cloves rope into bolt(s). Giving a good dynamic catch from a hanging belay is very difficult. Better to belay from ground unanchored if at all possible.

There are lots of ways to anchor into two bolts, and you should be able to improvise them as long as you have at least two caribiners around. You can anchor with the rope, slings, a PAS, etc.

The first thing I would consider is where I want to be positioned - If i want to be more than 3 feet from the bolts, I'll definitely anchor with the rope.

Second thing i'll consider is if I think i'll need to fine-tune the length of my anchor after it's setup - If so I'll probably want to tie in with a clove hitch or use a PAS.

From there, i'll pick what to do based on what gear I have.

Here's a picture I drew a year or two ago for doing a top-belay from a 2 bolt anchor. It's not exhaustive, but has some common methods, all the methods apply here, just ignore the re-direct parts (though you may want to run the lead line thru a master point)

Josh Janes wrote:Belayer ties into other end of rope and cloves rope into bolt(s).

Have a look at multipitchclimbing.com/
and go to chapter 6: The Belay. More options than any sane man or woman could need.

I would post at redriverclimbing.com , but I believe I just tied in and clove-hitched a couple biners when belaying Abiyoyo.