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short climbing sessions with different focus?

Original Post
Marek Sapkovski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 65

Right now I am following a simple training plan where I focus on endurance for 3 weeks (do long gym routes plus ARC traversing) and then focus of power/recruitment/power-endurance for 3 weeks (do bouldering or work routes way above my limit). I do 2-3 long gym climbing sessions per week, usually 3 hours. After a long hard session I am so "broken" that I need 2 days to recover. If I was bouldering, training power or PE, even two days do not feel enough.

I thought of switching to 5 daily sessions of about 1-1.5 hours with 2 days rest. Also, as opposed to a dedicating a few weeks to a specific focus, use different training focus for different days during the week, thus hopefully allowing some "active" recovery. E.g. do a day of hard bouldering, next day technical slab/crack, next day long easy routes (ARC) etc.

I think this way I can climb more and get more productive skill training. Also, I feel that it would easier on the body.

(a) Would is be beneficial from training and recovery perspective to climb more frequently but in shorter sessions?

(b) Would it be less productive to train multiple skills/focus during the same training week?

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

check out a blacksmith or stone mason sometime. Everyday exposure to the "stimulus" (their manual labor). They are strong as fuck.

I follow this training principle and abandoned my house and job and live in my truck/tent and try to climb every day with tons of volume below and at my onsight limit. Then I get super psyched on something sick and I start doing some "power" sessions working the boulder problem or crux of a route. Then I start linking shit together if its a long power endurancey thing then I send it. Then I go back to subonsight/onsight volume until I find something sick again.

Rest days = walking and lifting weights and watching movies/smoking weed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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