evolv addicts (climbing slipper)

i am interested in the addicts as a crack/multi-pitch shoe (which is what they're made for) and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them and could tell me if they're a good shoe.

I have not tried them. I'm still going to answer though.

I've owned something like 50 pairs of Evolves over the years, maybe more. One common thing I have noticed is that if you are crack climbing, the insert to increase edging, like these shoes have, causes a pressure point in the rubber and you blow through your sole sooner. By sooner I mean days vs several weeks to months on shoes without the stiffener (assuming you are climbing full time).

Aside from that, they look like extremely well built shoes.

I would get Mocs first though, they are very durable and are pretty much the same otherwise.

For the most durable Evolve shoe that edges OK (not great) and fits cracks like magic while being comfortable, go with the defy. You just need to ask them to add some rubber to the back so your toe knuckles don't blow out. Their sock like fit means no pressure points to wear out on the rock. I've taken mine up the Diamond, the Hulk, Ulamsertuaq, and I also did my first 13 in them. They can hang, even though you'd never believe it based on what the average wearer of them looks like.

+1 for the defy. At <;$50 online, you can beat the hell out of em. I also have a feeling they are the shoe that Steph Davis gives out, "sized larger for crack," in her Indian Creek clinics.
-Mackley

i was considering the mocs but a lot of people steered me away from them, and every 5.10 i've tried on has felt sloppy and wrong on me (heels are completely loose and toes never sit right).
and as for the rubber; would this be fixed by a resole with different rubber? i'm used to climbing in sportiva's and really like the rubber on them and was planning on just getting them resoled with vibram when the trax rubber wore out.
i've never been a fan of evolv before but trying these on had me questioning my love of sportiva's so i'm hoping this shoe isn't too good to be true

I've had very good luck with Bandit velcros. They won't be as comfortable as moccs in thinner sizes, but they've been great in tight hands and up. They edge really well (much better than defys), and the pointed toe works well in finger sized cracks and pods.
If you're looking for a crack-only shoe, do the moccs. If you want one that will perform better over a wider range of terrain, go for the bandits or defys.

Contrary to other posters' experience with the stiff evolv midsole, mine have been remarkably durable. I guess it all depends on how often you put them in cracks, the size of the cracks, what type of rock, how well the shoe is fit in the first place, etc.

I've been climbing in the addicts for the last 2 weeks. I haven't had them long enough to comment on durability or how long the rubber lasts. I will say that I love the fit. They feel just like moccs with a heel that fits me better. If you like the sensitive leather slipper style and are looking to try a new shoe shape then go for it. I've been happy with them.

camp4climber wrote:I've been climbing in the addicts for the last 2 weeks. I haven't had them long enough to comment on durability or how long the rubber lasts. I will say that I love the fit. They feel just like moccs with a heel that fits me better. If you like the sensitive leather slipper style and are looking to try a new shoe shape then go for it. I've been happy with them.

How does the sizing compare with 5.10 moc?

have you noticed any considerable stretch? the 10's fit me well and and i feel like the stretch shouldn't be too bad. i have never worn evolvs before and don't want to end up with a loose shoe. i can hardly get into the 9 1/2 though

I have also noticed that when someone posts up asking about an inferior product, most times, their mind is made up and they do end up buying the inferior product.

I've done it, you are about to do it.

In 6 months you'll go buy real shoes.

I have a pair and don't love them. The edging is poor, and the tongue comes to far up restricting the motion of the foot. They will probably become my go to for long easy moderate multi pitch, slab climbing and the like, but I still like my muiras, 1/2 a size bigger for that anyway.

Wanting to grab a pair of these. How do these stretch if any? Any feedback is appreciated, thank you

Maybe 1/2 a size at most so far. I sized these down a full size, and I've found they're pretty damn good for edging actually!

Got these for gym climbing, and sized them small for edging and face climbing. I've actually really enjoyed them so far. There was a hotspot in the heel for the first few weeks.

caughtinside wrote:Are they made of leather? Or the synthetic material Evolv uses on all their other shoes? I've always thought evolvs are well made, but I've got sweaty feet and the synthetic material doesn't absorb sweat well and always leaves my feet wet and clammy.

According to the website, it's leather.

Leather upper and footbed provides custom fit and comfort

I am pretty psyched on the addicts.

Pro:
They are the best slab shoes I've worn. They're really, egregiously sensitive out of the box and only get better as you wear them in. They edge well enough, but in a somewhat counter-intuitive kind of way. Since they have a super flaccid mid-sole (which you'd expect would make them suck at edging) I feel like the gained sensitivity allows me to know exactly how far I can push the envelope on smearing or balancing on a dime edge or crystal. Though comparatively, this may ask for increased foot and calf strength. To bang the sensitivity point just one more time, my footwork in general feels super clean in these shoes. At least as good as any other I've tried.

They're also more than comfortable enough to be a solid candidate for an all day, multi-pitch shoe.

Lastly, I found these to fit near perfectly in the toe box and heel as compared to Mocs. That's obviously a subjective point, though, since all our feet are different.

Con:
I didn't find them to be especially good in cracks, but YMMV. The lack of laces (can, at times) allow them to rotate slightly around your feet on really strenuous jams. This has only been an issue a handful of times, but I've seen that negative effect amplified when I'm climbing in hotter weather as sweat can lubricate the rotating action. I chalk it up to being a natural trade off/disadvantage of lace-less/velcro-less shoes, though.

Over-all, they're pretty superb, 'all-round' shoes. Especially for being on the more affordable end of the spectrum.

so i've been climbing in these for quite some time now and can't say enough good things about them. they edge exceptionally well, are awesome at smearing, jam like a dream (even on thin cracks) and they didn't bag out. i also have a pair of moccasyms now that don't even compare. they are pretty good at smearing and jamming in cracks down to #1 BD, but can't edge at all are aren't very good at thinner crack. they also fit really wide and just feel loose and floppy. good for moderate/easy multipitch outings though

i'm not exactly sure, but i would think so since they're much stiffer than the mocs

I had climbed in nothing but 5.10 moccs for 12 years, and I headed out to Yosemite late this august. Nobody in climbing town USA had moccs in my size so I tried on the Addict and was immediately impressed. It was just like the mocc, with a superior fit and inferior rubber. The fit was better in the toes and far better in the heel. It took much longer to break in the Addict and there was, as one commenter above stated, a wicked Hotspot in the heel. Now I have had them re-soled with stealth C4 and they are the cats ass, cooler than sliced bread. I put them through the wringer in the valley, I feed 16 pitches on the Nose with them, freed those scary slabs on the FreeBlast with them, Bouldered with them, and I've been able to clip up steep routes with them. Technique is my strength and I am light on my feet and easy on shoes so I can't yet say how durable they are but so far so good and I certainly would recommend them.

caughtinside wrote: Really? Is there a last in the addicts? I had assumed they were just an unlasted shoe like the moccs.

You're confusing "last" (all shoes are built on a last; it's the foot-shaped form they are formed around) and "midsole". See also "board lasted" vs "slip lasted".

ShireSmitty wrote: I had climbed in nothing but 5.10 moccs for 12 years, and I headed out to Yosemite late this august. Nobody in climbing town USA had moccs in my size so I tried on the Addict and was immediately impressed. It was just like the mocc, with a superior fit and inferior rubber. The fit was better in the toes and far better in the heel. It took much longer to break in the Addict and there was, as one commenter above stated, a wicked Hotspot in the heel. Now I have had them re-soled with stealth C4 and they are the cats ass, cooler than sliced bread. I put them through the wringer in the valley, I feed 16 pitches on the Nose with them, freed those scary slabs on the FreeBlast with them, Bouldered with them, and I've been able to clip up steep routes with them. Technique is my strength and I am light on my feet and easy on shoes so I can't yet say how durable they are but so far so good and I certainly would recommend them.

I can't wait to resole these bad boys actually. Once I get some c4 on them they'll easy be my go to show for everything.

Side note, I love how sensitive these shoes are! They put my Anasazis to shame. I'll be buying these as long as they make em!

WillamR wrote: I can't wait to resole these bad boys actually. Once I get some c4 on them they'll easy be my go to show for everything. Side note, I love how sensitive these shoes are! They put my Anasazis to shame. I'll be buying these as long as they make em!

It's interesting to hear so many good reviews of these shoes considering the company. It definitely sounds like they're built very different from most Evolve's, that probably helps a lot.

Quick note about buying as long as they make them...Evolve has a few stable models but they do seem to cycle through shoes in 1 to 3 years. The Defy and the Pontas seem to be an exception. Geez, I had 2 pairs of the gray slipper just like the addict except synthetic, it was replaced by the Defy. It might be worth stockpiling if they really are that good.

I am 10.5 street shoe size. I want all day comfortable flat fit without slop for the long term (not necessarily immediately out of the box, can tolerate some break in). Should I order 10.5 addicts?