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Ice Climbing Rack

Original Post
RForbus · · Hotlanta · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

What's on your standard ice rack? What kind of screws, how many of each sizes, etc etc.

FoamFinger _______ · · Rad Town, Not set (USA) · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 250

My rack has a mix of BD 13cm and 16cm screws, as well as a couple of longer 19(?) and 21cm screws for A-threads. For single-pitch routes I usually go with 3 and 3, with 2 longer ones for the A-threads. You could climb just about any route in the world with 6-8 screws. I have more though so that I can rotate my screws through usage. It is very expensive to sharpen screws so rotating them prolongs their usage.
If you are just starting out leading on Ice I recommend having more than 8 though so that you can stitch your routes up with pro. As you become more comfortable, confident, and competent you can begin to carry and use less pro on route.

mbakerwh · · Gallup, NM · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

I carry 1x10cm, 2x13cm, 6x16cm, 2x19cm, and 1x22cm. Mostly I have the long ones 'cause I got into glacial climbing first, then more into water ice. If I were to rebuild my rack, I'd go with 2x10, 4x13, 2x16, 2x19, and 1x22. I bought most of my screws used from a guide who gave me a killer deal on them--like 25 bucks a screw....So I took what he had basically. I'm relatively new (2 seasons) to leading ice, so I enjoy sewing up my leads, even moderate ones. With that being said, every time I lead a climb, I find myself at the top, after building my anchor, with 2 or 3 screws left. So I'm probably climbing with more than I need....

I have all BD screws, a mix of express and non-express. When leading, the expresses are nice to put in compared to the non...If you're looking to get some non-express screws for cheap, send me a PM. I might be willing to offload some for cheap.

There are some sweet sharpening services that actually use a CNC machine and take off a couple millimeters from your screw and give them a "new" edge. Its usually like 10 bucks a screw, and you end up with one that's like new.

KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125

I own a mix of BD Express and Grivel 360's. How many I carry depends on what I am climbing.

1 10cm BD Express: for thin ice and crappy Catskills topouts
3 13cm BD Express: always on
3 16cm BD Express: take as many as needed
7 16cm Grivel 360s: take as many as needed, especially if ice is highly textured, since these can be placed in recesses between icicles and such
2 20 cm Grivel 360s: These collect dust at home unless I'm heading somewhere I might need to rap/bail off a thread.

The most I have used on a single route is 11-12, linking two pitches together for a full rope length. I find it useful to have spares at home in case one gets dull, I can set it aside until I have time to sharpen it. A friend showed me how to sharpen screws, and it's not hard if you're patient. I've picked up some of the Grivels for as little as $13/screw because they were in need of significant sharpening.

RafalA · · Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

I use mostly the shorter ones, I have all BD Express (or whichever the newer two-hole hanger style are) though I've used Grivel, Petzl, Omega Pacific, E-Climb, etc. They all work, but the sharper the better.

Length depends on what you're climbing. For hard mid-winter ice that's well stuck together, 10s and 13s are fine. For chandeliered stuff you might want some 16s. Wet spring ice takes 19s well. The 21s are really just for V-threads.

FWIW, I own:

4x 10
4x 13
4x 16
1x 19
1x 21

More often than not, I'll bring them all. I'll use the longest ones for anchors, the rest as needed. It's also nice to have at least a couple of screamers you can tie-off on the screw shaft.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Have:
x10cm turbo
2x10cm express
4x13cm express
4x16cm express
1x17cm old express
3x19cm express
3x22cm express

What I rack up depends on the ice conditions and state of the routes. Generally have around 10 - 12 screws including the belay pieces.

I'll add a couple rock pieces if the route calls for it.
6 screamers, bunch of alpine draws, a double runner, cordelette.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

3x super stubbies
4x 10cm
4x 13cm
10x 17cm <excessive I know
4x 19cm
1x 22cm

Depending on what conditions are dictates what I bring.
Luc and I have even pooled our 19's up some steep chandelier routes.

I'll bring up to 12 screws if doing a full length 60m pitch of wi5. Plus anchor screws if needed.

My Formula #screws = Meters/5 * .75^(WI_limit-WI_climb)
a 60m climb at wi3 = 60/5*.75^2 =6.75 screws

garrettem · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 575

I own 11 screws of varied sizes and only ever use that many if it's long multi pitch stuff with your belays on ice screws. Doing many of the bigger routes in Colorado I've never wished I had a more. I would recommend buying more screws in the 16 and 19 range to start out.

My rack is

2-13cm
4-16cm
3-19cm
2-21cm
Alpine draws, piece of coat hanger (for threads), and an old cordellete to cut when needed.

Josh Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 20

3 screamers
one qd
5 alpine draws
BD express screws
2 stubbies
2 13's
4 16's
2 19's

mbakerwh · · Gallup, NM · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Here's a question for you folks--What's the advantage of using alpine draws with ice screws? It's hard to imagine them walking.....I can see an advantage on pillers/chandeliers when you might put a screw behind something or around something, and certainly for slinging a small pillar, branch, tree, etc. as natural pro.

I typically climb with 4-6 alpine draws and 6 regular QDs, all wiregates (hate the frozen biners!). Is there something I'm missing in using an alpine draw in ice?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
mbakerwh wrote:Here's a question for you folks--What's the advantage of using alpine draws with ice screws? It's hard to imagine them walking.....I can see an advantage on pillers/chandeliers when you might put a screw behind something or around something, and certainly for slinging a small pillar, branch, tree, etc. as natural pro. I typically climb with 4-6 alpine draws and 6 regular QDs, all wiregates (hate the frozen biners!). Is there something I'm missing in using an alpine draw in ice?
Great question, and yes - screws can walk. I was on a multi-pitch climb last year, climbed maybe 15 feet above my last screw, and happened to look back - the screw had moved 4 feet to the left of where I placed it! WTF?

Seriously though, it depends on what you're doing. Are you climbing straight up a sheet of ice? Climbing with half ropes? Quickdraws are fine.

Are you on a wandering mixed route? You'll thank yourself for the alpine draws, most likely. Again, climbing half ropes will help with ropedrag, etc on a more wandery line, but the versatility of the alpine draw will make your day more often than not.

Emergency v-thread and can't pull the rope through? Strip your alpine draw. Need a quick extended clip in off your harness to a screw? Alpine draw. Meet some hot lady on the climb that has a thing for guys with alpine draws? Alpine draw.
Josh Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 20

regarding the alpine draws...
I know for me it partly comes down to never having climbed sport and never buying draws as well as finding times where there is a tree mid-route I can sling for pro using a girth hitched draw

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

Ice routes can wander and have bulges. So yes alpine draws are desirable at times. I always carry a couple minimum and at time all the draws can be alpine.

mbakerwh · · Gallup, NM · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Hate those walking screws man, four feet's a hike for one of those bad boys!

Yeah, that makes sense. I've mostly just done sheets o' ice. I havent done much mixed climbing at all, always done it in TR scenarios, and when I've led stuff it's been on half ropes...I think also part of my reason for taking QDs is that all my alpine draws are nylon, not dyneema--Which adds bulk and mess to my harness....

RafalA · · Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20
mbakerwh wrote:Here's a question for you folks--What's the advantage of using alpine draws with ice screws? It's hard to imagine them walking.....I can see an advantage on pillers/chandeliers when you might put a screw behind something or around something, and certainly for slinging a small pillar, branch, tree, etc. as natural pro. I typically climb with 4-6 alpine draws and 6 regular QDs, all wiregates (hate the frozen biners!). Is there something I'm missing in using an alpine draw in ice?
My ice rack is half alpine draws half quick draws. Sometimes the route wanders around and the alpine ones are nice to have. Also, on many WI6 routes, the pro can be deep inside at the base of a mushroom, etc. at which point the alpine draws help keep the rope 'on top' of the ice and reduce drag. They also work well for tying off screws that bottom out :D
RForbus · · Hotlanta · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the replies. Its been very helpful and insightful. Looking to start building my rack here soon. I plan to use BD express screws. Start off with 116cm and 19cm screws frist and then branch out in either direction. Cheers

Just Solo · · Colorado Springs · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 80

I once had a screw unscrew itself, DANCE not walk three feet. Crazy little buggers.

My rack is totally dependent on route. I hate carrying shit I won't use. I own:
All express
5 stubbies
4 13s
4 16s
3 19s
3 20/21s (which hardly ever get used, mostly for v's)

And a few misc screws of different types and sizes...

I use a mixture of alpine draws and QDs, generally I think of my rack on a climb as a piece around every 10-15 ft depending on bulges, natural separations etc. Also, some variation, if the route requires any sort of anchor building or not. I tend to prefer shorter screws overall, and put longer screws in first (if poss) as the fall factors are higher in the first couple of screws, plus a slightly shorter screw takes just a little less time to put in when getting pumped.

I've only had a couple of times that I misjudged and slung too few screws. I always rack one "extra" now just in case.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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