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Routes in Mt. Bourgeau
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Bourgeau Left-Hand WI5 |
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Bourgeau Right-Hand T WI4 |
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Early Worm, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flirting with the Bosch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walk of Ages S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Tim Auger, George Homer, Rob Wood, Jan '74. FFA John Roskelly, Jim States |
| Page Views: | 3,726 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Rone on Dec 14, 2013 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
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Description
An excellent route, one of the best for its grade, with three great pitches leading to the crux pitch at the top. The major downfall (pun intended) of the route is the extreme avalanche hazard that exists from above. The area is regularly bombed and it is imperative to be aware of conditions. The route also gets lots of sun, so it can change in short order.
P1: Climb steep, sometimes hollow ice to a fixed belay on the left.
P2: Continue up steep ice to the broad ledge and a fixed anchor. Again, this may sound hollow if the ice is separating from the rock wall, and it can be thin at the top.
P3. Move the belay up and right, and climb a short pitch to a fixed anchor in a sheltered alcove.
P4: Climb a long, steep pitch of good ice to the top, and a fixed anchor on the right.
Rappel the route from fixed stations.
P1: Climb steep, sometimes hollow ice to a fixed belay on the left.
P2: Continue up steep ice to the broad ledge and a fixed anchor. Again, this may sound hollow if the ice is separating from the rock wall, and it can be thin at the top.
P3. Move the belay up and right, and climb a short pitch to a fixed anchor in a sheltered alcove.
P4: Climb a long, steep pitch of good ice to the top, and a fixed anchor on the right.
Rappel the route from fixed stations.
Location
The route lies about 500m left of Bourgeau Right, but cannot be seen until you are below it. Park in the Sunshine Village parking lot, and walk past the gondolas, through the far end of the parking lot to a trail along the creek. Continue up and right, climbing ice steps up the gully or working up rock slabs to the base of the route.
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