Compare sister squeeze to Kor ingals

So off to do Kor Ingalls in the morning can't figure out if I should be afraid or not. Is the off width 5.9 pitch about like the opening moves on the chimney pitch on jah man. I realize that if I can climb jah man and fine jade and yada yada yad I should be fine but, old school unprotected off width can be death defying at times.

I couldn't do the off width move to get into the chimney. Instead, I laybacked until i was past the constriction, and then got into the chimney. After that, the chimney felt secure.

I was shocked at how slick the calcite was for my feet while laybacking. I think the trick is to just accept how frictionless it is and apply extra force onto your feet. When I led it, there was an old bolt to protect these moves, but back it up!

Kor Ingalls pitch is way harder than the Jah Man pitch. You will be fine, get some rest.

skip KI and do the north chimney. you'll enjoy it far more.

Be afraid.

Also second North Chimney over Kor Ingalls unless you just like thrutchin.

First pitch of North Chimney is money (perfect double cracks in a corner).

If you've done jah man and fine jade you'll be fine. The thought of laying it back sounds terrifying. The bolt at the crux is good. I'd bring extra fist size cams for the 2nd pitch. Maybe a old 4 Camelot too. Think about moving your belay too on the 2nd pitch. There is a lot of rope out if you don't and a fall on the fist crack has sent more than a few people to the hospital due to hitting the ledge. I like the Kor Ingalls more than the N chimney but it is a good other option.

It's pretty easy if you're angry about getting your rope stuck and have to lead it again to retrieve it. Embrace the Dark Side!

Though I know there is a pitch labeled OW on the Kor Ingalls, I don't remember it being much of an offwidth. The rock is featured on that section of rock so don't be afraid of a potential wide move that you can't handle, because it's just not there. Have fun!

I also didn't find the OW to be that bad- just move slowly and deliberately whether you are laybacking or climbing straight in, you'll be fine. I second (or third?) the heads up about the second pitch. The climbing is pretty secure and the gear is reasonable but that pitch, much more so than the OW, is where you're likely to get stung; definitely ledge fall potential should a cam pull. There are some loose blocks around there so really scrutinize your gear placements and be careful not to toss anything down on your belayer.

Dobson wrote:It's pretty easy if you're angry about getting your rope stuck and have to lead it again to retrieve it. Embrace the Dark Side!

Dave Alie wrote:I also didn't find the OW to be that bad- just move slowly and deliberately whether you are laybacking or climbing straight in, you'll be fine. I second (or third?) the heads up about the second pitch. The climbing is pretty secure and the gear is reasonable but that pitch, much more so than the OW, is where you're likely to get stung; definitely ledge fall potential should a cam pull. There are some loose blocks around there so really scrutinize your gear placements and be careful not to toss anything down on your belayer. This sounds horrible, but is easily avoided: don't rap the Kor-Ingalls, exit via the north face.