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Routes in Main Wall
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Anegada Passage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Eros T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eros Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phasers On Stun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Star Trekin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winged Mongrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Jim Downs, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 3,553 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | David82 on Aug 29, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Start on near vertical rock, head up and left to a vertical crack, pull a couple of awkward moves to a good stance below the roof, place some good gear, and get moving on the rather steep roof. Exit to the left before the end of the roof!
Other advice from the guide book...
Start: At left most side of cliff on a bushy pedestal.
Pitch 1: Move up the face and angle left to where a roof and angling crack system meet. Follow the corner up and right until you can monkey-bar onto the face using huge jugs. Continue up the face to a natural belay near the top of the cliff.
Descent: Move right to rappel from the two bolts atop "Eros Direct". 80 feet.
Information from "Select Climbs in North Carolina". Yon Lambert and Harrison Shull. 2002.
Other advice from the guide book...
Start: At left most side of cliff on a bushy pedestal.
Pitch 1: Move up the face and angle left to where a roof and angling crack system meet. Follow the corner up and right until you can monkey-bar onto the face using huge jugs. Continue up the face to a natural belay near the top of the cliff.
Descent: Move right to rappel from the two bolts atop "Eros Direct". 80 feet.
Information from "Select Climbs in North Carolina". Yon Lambert and Harrison Shull. 2002.
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