Best V5 in Bishop?

I'm going to Bishop for spring break, and I'm going to try to bag my first V5. I did the fang (V4) after an afternoon of work, and I flashed Yabba Dabba don't (V4) in joshua tree. Any suggestions for classic V5's? I thought Captain hook looked cool, and so did anti-hero. Thoughts?

anti hero is ass-dragger, kind of lack-luster. I'd look at Strength in Numbers or Serenghetti (sp) in the tablelands or the sit to the bowling pin or flyboy arete at the milks.

suspended in silence is the best

second "suspended in silence"

Ah! can't believe I forgot suspended!

the leary bard arete is outstanding. also the fly boy arete is great.

Suspended in Silence. Strength in Numbers is good too.

nifty little feature MP has...

route finder

I searched Bishop area V5's by star rating for you. It's real easy to do and polls every user that ever submitted their $.02

suspended in silence at the pollengrains
leary/bard at the milks
serengeti at the happies
molly at the sads

also if you have trouble with those I highly recommend hiking up to the druids. all the 5's up there are straight forward, and perfect for those breaking into that grade

For a first-of-the-grade problem, I'd aim for something relatively safe, not at the top end of the grade, and classic or at least quite good. Suspended in Silence looks like an excellent problem (I haven't climbed it) and would be a proud first V5, but a 30' tall V5+ R isn't what I'd be looking for. Similarly, Strength in Numbers is quite tall with a badly sloped landing.

Also, in my experience the most classic for a grade more often are either scary, or hard for the grade. So it might depend a bit if you want a really proud first V5, or better chances of actually getting it.

Anti-Hero is low and easy to work the moves, but is also awkward and ass-draggy. Depends on your goals for your first V5, but wouldn't be top of my list. Captain Hook might be a good one, though it's kind of a party trick (and I found it pretty hard for V5).

Here's my list of good first V5s:
Serengeti
Molly
Fueled By Hate
Flyboy Arete
Leary/Bard Arete (a bit scary)
Go Granny Go (doesn't top out but good anyway)

Some slightly less classic (but still good) lines:
Son of Claudius Rufus
Mr. Happy
Chizam
Anti-Hero
Hook Line and Sinker
Suspenders
Hair Trigger

Best of luck.

I was going to recommend Saigon, and wondered why no one else had, but I see it's been upgraded. When I did it in 2002, I believe the guides at the time had it at V5.

Then I was going to recommend pope's prow, which when I did it in the 90's checked in at a very hard and technical V4. I see that has also been upgraded to V6 some point along the way.

So, in light of the fact that everything I remember has been upgraded in the last 15+ years, I looked for some good V3 and 4's to see if those also had the same fate. Yup, the 2 side by side bachar problems (V3 and V3+ BITD) are now clocking in at V5 and V5+

So, I would say try those.

Also, +1 recommendation for Strength in Numbers. I don't know that much about the bouldering there outside of the Milks.

Tom Allen wrote:For a first-of-the-grade problem, I'd aim for something relatively safe, not at the top end of the grade, and classic or at least quite good. Suspended in Silence looks like an excellent problem (I haven't climbed it) and would be a proud first V5, but a 30' tall V5+ R isn't what I'd be looking for. Similarly, Strength in Numbers is quite tall with a badly sloped landing.

Is Suspended really 30'? I feel like I would have been too scared to climb it if it were that tall. The landing on both these problems is fine if you have a few pads. Hints the name SIN(Strength in Numbers)

Red wrote: Is Suspended really 30'?

That was from the description from this site, along with "Scary!!". Based on video, it looks like the hard climbing is over somewhere between 18' and 25'.

It's a great answer to the questions actually asked: "Best V5 in Bishop?" and "Any suggestions for classic V5's?". But it doesn't seem like a good first V5 to me.

Agreed. I only read the title of the thread at first. Suspended would be an epic first V5. He should still give SIN a try if he has a few good pads and a spot.

I think Suspended in Silence is safer than SIN. SIS's crux is off the ground and from what I remember towards the top isn't harder than V3. SIN's crux is at the very top with a bad landing.

Also, Jedi MInd Tricks is right around the corner from SIS. Definitely a must do.

^ agreed. I rolled my ankle real bad falling off the top of SIN. Suspended in Silence was my first 5. While suspended is tall, the business is over after the dyno and the next little 4 move sequence. The holds get better the higher you go, and you couldn't ask for a better landing.

I think it's hard to argue against Suspended being the best v5 in Bishop (maybe the world). It's tall, proud, aesthetic, and incredibly fun. It's a buttermilk climb through and through.

In the happies, Serengeti is probably the best 5. I liked the beta going right over the left beta.

SIN would be number one in the sads.

Flyboy arete is pretty soft. You could probably get that one in a session.

Jedi Mind Tricks is a must do. Super fun.

Keep falling on the last move, but yeah... Strength in Numbers. Flyboy Arête is super soft. Serengeti is pretty soft too. Antihero is soft, too. Crux being not dabbing. Molly is quite hard I think. Leary Bard I thought wasn't too bad and not as scary as people say.

Saigon as a suggestion is crazy. Unless it just suits your style, I've seen it shut down some really strong climbers.

Hey guys, thanks for all the advice! I ticked "Go Granny Go (left)," "Captain Hook," and "Suspended in Silence" over the break. I also got to the last move on "Seven Spanish Angels," but I only had one pad with no spotters and was working the problem at night with a headlamp. Basically, I chickened out. But I'll get it next time. Thanks!