Leaving rope in the first draw

I must credit Laura Snider for the term used to describe this practice. The 'Panty Point' is when your BF leaves the first 2 draws clipped.

Boissal wrote:Re-using the stick clip may be an option no?

Oui.

I trick I've used is when pulling the rope...as the rope slides down through the draws, reach up and place your hand high on the falling rope just as it exits the draw above the one you want to leave clipped. Sometimes this small interruption is enough that a loop will fall down at the draw.

Ryan Kempf wrote:^^^

Wow, thanks Ryan. I needed a laugh and that provided. Cheers.

Jon Zucco wrote:why does this thread continue past reboot's first response or M Sprague's secondary method for overhanging/meandering routes where accessing the 2nd-4th draws on lower is impossible?

Why don't you clip a draw to your gear loop and then around the rope that is on the opposite side of the master point. Then when you lower, the draw will lower you to the other bolts.

If you're doing cave roof climbing of 13+, you should probably get good at stick clipping, or get used to heinous bouldering problems to the first clip in.

Eliot Augusto wrote: Why don't you clip a draw to your gear loop and then around the rope that is on the opposite side of the master point. Then when you lower, the draw will lower you to the other bolts. If you're doing cave roof climbing of 13+, you should probably get good at stick clipping, or get used to heinous bouldering problems to the first clip in.

Probably doesn't want to destroy his gear loop.

He means belay loop.

Eliot Augusto wrote: Why don't you clip a draw to your gear loop and then around the rope that is on the opposite side of the master point. Then when you lower, the draw will lower you to the other bolts. If you're doing cave roof climbing of 13+, you should probably get good at stick clipping, or get used to heinous bouldering problems to the first clip in.

I think you misunderstood me. When cleaning an overhanging route, what you're describing is best (unless you can get someone to follow on TR). But when trying to leave the draws hanging and the first draw clipped in for a second lead, what M Sprague suggested probably works best on steeper routes. Of course stick clipping is another option.

Loki wrote: the simple fact this is even being discussed...come omn. man up and lead the thing, or don't. stick clipping and other tactics like that are lame as hell

Tell me that after you've busted an ankle or worse decking on a hard lead to the first clip...

People seem dumber in 2014 then 2013 - does this apply to all of humanity or is it unique to sport climbers?

Eric Engberg wrote:People seem dumber in 2014 then 2013 - does this apply to all of humanity or is it unique to sport climbers?

Irony? Time travel?

So sometimes when I cook asparagus I like to cut the bottom inch or so off the stalk. I find that my dog will eat these, probably due to the texture not the taste. Then I place the asparagus on a piece of foil big enough to wrap all the stalks, but still allow them to lay flat. I cut a lemon in half and squeeze that over the asparagus with some ground pepper. Heat up the oven to 500* and cook for 20 minutes. The 20 minutes includes the time the oven is warming up, I like my asparagus undercooked and still crunchy.

Anyways my dogs piss smells funny after.

Ryan Kempf wrote:So sometimes when I cook asparagus I like to cut the bottom inch or so off the stalk. I find that my dog will eat these, probably due to the texture not the taste. Then I place the asparagus on a piece of foil big enough to wrap all the stalks, but still allow them to lay flat. I cut a lemon in half and squeeze that over the asparagus with some ground pepper. Heat up the oven to 500* and cook for 20 minutes. The 20 minutes includes the time the oven is warming up, I like my asparagus undercooked and still crunchy. Anyways my dogs piss smells funny after.

This reminds me of a time when I was in Wyoming. We pull into a gas station and there wasn't any empty spots to fill up...We had to wait an entire 5 fucking minutes. I was livid. When we got back on to the road, my friend puts the Beatles on. It was a good choice of music.

John Marsella wrote: Much akin to an airplane except that it was fueled by imagination.

...

Can there be a movie like this about your imagiplane?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2A194yTWoQ

One time, I decided to work on technology intended to reduce the weight of an object. Although the device seemed to work as planned, it had a side effect: an object left in the device experienced about 1300 times the amount of time the device was activated for. I reasoned that objects inside the box repeatedly traveled from the time the box was turned on to the time it was turned off while the field was active.

After some testing, I secretly built a prototype machine large enough to contain myself and, after using it to go back to earlier that day, demonstrated the results to my friend by showing my past-self entering the prototype machine. My friend and I built an additional machine (subsequently called "the box").

We started using the time machines to make money in the stock market, but as our understanding of how the machines work evolved, we became more adventurous with our trips. Our experimentation was cut short by the unexpected appearance of my girlfriend's dad, whose financial backing we had been trying to procure. Time traveling appeared to have made her dad comatose, and neither me nor my friend understood how he could have even discovered the box.

I was particularly disturbed by this turn of events and concluded that time travel was too dangerous to continue. I attempted to prevent my past-self from using the machine for time travel, thereby nullifying all of its consequences, by using a "failsafe" machine, which I previously built in secret, to travel back to a point prior to my first trip through time and also prior to my broaching the subject of time travel with my buddy.

Having traveled back four days in time using this failsafe point, I went to meet my friend but collapsed. After I recovered, my friend revealed that unbeknownst to me, he had discovered this failsafe box and used it to get control. He brought back another box, creating a false failsafe point to make me believe that there was still a working failsafe machine awaiting me, and preventing me from undoing his actions. He then revealed that he had been using a recording to recite our conversation from an earlier time. He continued to explain how he encountered, fought, and was subdued by a previous version of himself who used the failsafe to come back and make recordings after drugging a version of himself from the current timeline.

But the version of my friend who met me at the park bench, convinced the earlier version of himself that, since he (the latter version) had already made the recordings, he (the latter version) should continue to act as the original him in this timeline. The younger version left, allowing the older version to continue plans of redoing the events of a party in which a crasher attempted to shoot my girlfriend so my friend could become a hero. I agreed to try to change the events of the party with him and we succeeded, though it is unclear how many iterations it had taken. The issue of trusting, particularly anyone with such technology, and differing views on using the machines destroyed our friendship.

My now ex-friend accused me of coveting his family and I warned him never to return or interfere with our doubles. I stayed behind to continue plans of attempting to prevent the original versions of ourselves from this timeline (who have no idea of what the others have done) from ever using the machines for time travel, and tampered with the machines in the hope that our doubles would think the experiment a failure and move on to other projects.

Pretty sure my ex-friend is now in France right now making more time machines. But whatevs. I'm done with that chapter in my life. Maybe.

^
That too, was a good movie.

imdb.com/title/tt0390384/

Eliot Augusto wrote:^ That to was a good movie. imdb.com/title/tt0390384/

$7000 budget. So good.

Jon Zucco wrote:(A bunch, and I mean, bunch, of words...

TL;DR. But! Based on a reply, it was pretty funny.