Mountain Project Logo

Rope Advice

Original Post
Conor Galvin · · Santa Ana, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 90

I'm looking to get a new 70M rope, since I had to chop my old 60M by about 15feet because of a core shot. I'm getting into multi pitch, and I'm planning on going to devil's tower and tuolumne this summer. What would you reccomend in terms of rope diameter? 9.4 seems awful skinny, so I was thinking 9.8. Suggestions?

david doucette · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 25

9.8 is good. stay away from edelweiss.

the last three ropes i bought were edelweiss and the first one i returned because it got a small pull in the middle of it. returned it to gear x and they sent to to manufacturer and they said it was a defect so they gave me credit. i bought two more edelweiss and same thing happened but i didn't feel like the hassle of returning them plus it was after about a dozen uses the pulls happened in these. each of my ropes has two little pulls/bumps in them. i've never had that issue before with a couple of previous ropes and i used them a lot at jtree.

i still use them, they are fine, it annoys me to feel the pulls when i coil the rope though. my next rope will be a sterling.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153
Conor Galvin · · Santa Ana, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 90

Thanks guys! 9.8 sounds like its the maneuver.

Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

Why do you care if it's skinny? I have a 9.8 70m that I used for thrashing multipitch and it looked and handled like a 10.2 before too long. A 9.4, all factors equal, will bulk up and handle better, at least in terms of how it feels on your hands and Get fuzzy and feel less like threadlike. 9.4 is the new 9.8 bro. Splurge for bicolor, you'll likely appreciate it after a long day. And get something bright as hell, like neon yellow, for the same reason.

Conor Galvin · · Santa Ana, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 90

From what I've read, the skinnier ropes like 9.4 are more likely to cut and they aren't rated to as many falls

Conor Galvin · · Santa Ana, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 90

although, now that I think about it, rope cutting probably isn't as big of a concern on devil's tower or in tuolumne

Mac Lupton · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 20

I have been using a beal diablo Unicore 10.2 that feels much thinner and handles like a 9.8 IMO. I think the unicore keeps the rope compact and firm. They make it in 70 in 9.8 as well.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415
Nate_801 · · St. George · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 105

I have a 70 m 10.2 blue water and love it.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

9.4 is fine, I had a 70m bluewater 9.4 dominator that i used for red point burns and long routes alike. it took a shitload of abuse and i finally had to cut it at about 60m, still climbing on it still stretchy and bouncy on the whip. a great cord. that being said. my next rope is going to be a 70m 10.1 from sterling I have 2 9.4 60m ropes and a 60m 9.8 i got in a raffle. I dont see any need to go thinner than 9.4 since the 9.2 9.1 ropes are within 3-5GramsPerMeter of 9.4

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531
Matt N wrote:http://gearx.com/mammut-climax-9-6-standard-classic-dynamic-rope.html?gclid=COvN05fz8LwCFRJo7AodLgsADQ#491=5690&525=3532&googlebase&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping
+1 for this rope at this price.

I've had great experiences with Edelweiss ropes. I have the 9.5 energy and 9.8 curve. Both ropes have proven to be extremely durable and the one over one sheath pattern makes for silky smooth handling.

Mammut Tusk is the worst rope I have ever owned. Way too stiff. It's like a steel cable that kinks and knots itself.
iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

One and only mammut rope I've ever owned turned into a fucking nightmare tangle cluster . I'll never ever buy another mammut rope as long as I live.

I've had very good luck with edelweiss , blue water , beal , pmi, and ok luck with sterling ropes.

Blue water and edelweiss used to be my go to ropes for walls.

Skinny rope = skinny sheath = less useful life .

I'm using a monster 9.2X70 and it's been holding up very well for a 9.2 , it's actually holding up better then my 9.5X60 sterling bi- pattern . I have a 9.8X70 sterling that's not impressing me too much right now , so yea I'm seriously re thinking sterling right now there on my shit list.

I like a stiffer sheath on my ropes so The PMI 9.9X80 has been my favorite fat rope the past couple years and the 9.2X70 monster a good skinny rope .

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

difference in weight is about a lb from a 9.8 to a 9.4 so if you're trying to cut down on the alpine kit go skinny. I have the ion2 9.4 from sterling and after seven days of thrashing on sierra granite its still brand new...havent had much time on it since then.

i've also heard good things about monster (tendon ropes) 9.2

Beals are super supple and my rope of choice for sketchy gear routes but i tend to buy whatever deal i find.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

I have a sterling evolution velocity 9.8 and subjected it to all manner of abuse at JTree. Probably close to 100 pitches later its a bit dirty but hardly any signs of wear. Time will tell but so far it seems pretty bulletproof.

It is noticeably heavier than my mammut infinity 9.5 but also seems more durable. Depends which you value more.

Eric Robertson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

+1 for the Sterling Evolution Velocity... but get the bicolor.

K-Tanz · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 211

I have had good experience with blue water. I own an edelweiss 9.8 now and have mixed feelings. The first day I had it I had it on some soft sandstone and threads started to pull. I love how it handles and catches s but durability is questionable. I had an edelrid that was the softest handling thing ever that actually held up well and I would but another. Mammuts will last you but they are seriously stiff IMHO.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Been through a few ropes. 25+? Mammut, Blue Water, Edelweiss, Sterling, Beal, etc. Often i find that more important than weight is the feel, the draw through the biners. I was in the market for the Mammut infinity, my wife for Christmas gave me a Beal Stinger 3. I am in love, with my wife and my rope. Amazing feel, great ratings (and if you don't know how, learn to read the ratings on rope). It is my go to on long outings, has a great catch, dragged it over Sierra granite w/little visual degradation. Although any rope that survives 100+ routes in J-tree is miraculous! Really depends on what you plan on doing to it. When you can, get the opportunity to climb on other peoples rope, to see how they feel. Helps a lot. And you don't wear out yours! (Ha ha)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
Post a Reply to "Rope Advice"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.