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Mamunia
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimping Lessons S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mamunia S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Middle Age Crazy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Middle Age Savage T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Solid Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | P1: Troy Mayr, April 1988, P2: Troy Mayr & Rob Mulligan, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,211 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Sep 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climb is a foray into hard, crumbly edging and crimping. Despite the rather ephemeral nature of some of the rock, the climbing is quite good.
P1: Several bolts worth of the aforementioned crimping up diminishing features on vertical ground leads to a slightly slabby and tortuously blank section. Magic foot moves lead past this balance crux to larger features and a belay atop an ominous block. (real .12a)
P2: While I didn't climb it, it appears to be a slightly overhung version of the first pitch. (.13a?) Legend has it that this pitch may not have ever been climbed. See comments below.
P1: Several bolts worth of the aforementioned crimping up diminishing features on vertical ground leads to a slightly slabby and tortuously blank section. Magic foot moves lead past this balance crux to larger features and a belay atop an ominous block. (real .12a)
P2: While I didn't climb it, it appears to be a slightly overhung version of the first pitch. (.13a?) Legend has it that this pitch may not have ever been climbed. See comments below.
Location
This route is located on the left side of the wall, to the right of a couple of other bolted lines (Strike It Rich, Naked Singularity and Strike A Bitch). Prickly Pear cactus is abundant at the base, whose spines occasioned at least an hour of removal efforts after pulling my rope into the cacti.
I believe that I retrieved two or three leaver 'biners from the first pitch alone and one from the first bolt on the second pitch. Crumbles and bolt quality notwithstanding, I think with more traffic this climb might clean up a little or, potentially, become impossible. Either way, it's worth a look if one is in the area.
I believe that I retrieved two or three leaver 'biners from the first pitch alone and one from the first bolt on the second pitch. Crumbles and bolt quality notwithstanding, I think with more traffic this climb might clean up a little or, potentially, become impossible. Either way, it's worth a look if one is in the area.
5 Comments