Leaving rope in the first draw
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I must credit Laura Snider for the term used to describe this practice. The 'Panty Point' is when your BF leaves the first 2 draws clipped. |
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Boissal wrote:Re-using the stick clip may be an option no?Oui. I trick I've used is when pulling the rope...as the rope slides down through the draws, reach up and place your hand high on the falling rope just as it exits the draw above the one you want to leave clipped. Sometimes this small interruption is enough that a loop will fall down at the draw. |
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Ryan Kempf wrote:^^^Wow, thanks Ryan. I needed a laugh and that provided. Cheers. |
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Jon Zucco wrote:why does this thread continue past reboot's first response or M Sprague's secondary method for overhanging/meandering routes where accessing the 2nd-4th draws on lower is impossible?Why don't you clip a draw to your gear loop and then around the rope that is on the opposite side of the master point. Then when you lower, the draw will lower you to the other bolts. If you're doing cave roof climbing of 13+, you should probably get good at stick clipping, or get used to heinous bouldering problems to the first clip in. |
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Eliot Augusto wrote: Why don't you clip a draw to your gear loop and then around the rope that is on the opposite side of the master point. Then when you lower, the draw will lower you to the other bolts. If you're doing cave roof climbing of 13+, you should probably get good at stick clipping, or get used to heinous bouldering problems to the first clip in.Probably doesn't want to destroy his gear loop. |
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He means belay loop. |
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Eliot Augusto wrote: Why don't you clip a draw to your gear loop and then around the rope that is on the opposite side of the master point. Then when you lower, the draw will lower you to the other bolts. If you're doing cave roof climbing of 13+, you should probably get good at stick clipping, or get used to heinous bouldering problems to the first clip in.I think you misunderstood me. When cleaning an overhanging route, what you're describing is best (unless you can get someone to follow on TR). But when trying to leave the draws hanging and the first draw clipped in for a second lead, what M Sprague suggested probably works best on steeper routes. Of course stick clipping is another option. Loki wrote: the simple fact this is even being discussed...come omn. man up and lead the thing, or don't. stick clipping and other tactics like that are lame as hellTell me that after you've busted an ankle or worse decking on a hard lead to the first clip... |
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People seem dumber in 2014 then 2013 - does this apply to all of humanity or is it unique to sport climbers? |
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Eric Engberg wrote:People seem dumber in 2014 then 2013 - does this apply to all of humanity or is it unique to sport climbers?Irony? Time travel? |
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So sometimes when I cook asparagus I like to cut the bottom inch or so off the stalk. I find that my dog will eat these, probably due to the texture not the taste. Then I place the asparagus on a piece of foil big enough to wrap all the stalks, but still allow them to lay flat. I cut a lemon in half and squeeze that over the asparagus with some ground pepper. Heat up the oven to 500* and cook for 20 minutes. The 20 minutes includes the time the oven is warming up, I like my asparagus undercooked and still crunchy. |
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Ryan Kempf wrote:So sometimes when I cook asparagus I like to cut the bottom inch or so off the stalk. I find that my dog will eat these, probably due to the texture not the taste. Then I place the asparagus on a piece of foil big enough to wrap all the stalks, but still allow them to lay flat. I cut a lemon in half and squeeze that over the asparagus with some ground pepper. Heat up the oven to 500* and cook for 20 minutes. The 20 minutes includes the time the oven is warming up, I like my asparagus undercooked and still crunchy. Anyways my dogs piss smells funny after.This reminds me of a time when I was in Wyoming. We pull into a gas station and there wasn't any empty spots to fill up...We had to wait an entire 5 fucking minutes. I was livid. When we got back on to the road, my friend puts the Beatles on. It was a good choice of music. |
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Can there be a movie like this about your imagiplane? |
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One time, I decided to work on technology intended to reduce the weight of an object. Although the device seemed to work as planned, it had a side effect: an object left in the device experienced about 1300 times the amount of time the device was activated for. I reasoned that objects inside the box repeatedly traveled from the time the box was turned on to the time it was turned off while the field was active. |
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^ |
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Eliot Augusto wrote:^ That to was a good movie. imdb.com/title/tt0390384/$7000 budget. So good. |
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Jon Zucco wrote:(A bunch, and I mean, bunch, of words...TL;DR. But! Based on a reply, it was pretty funny. |